n14 air comprssor ticking

[olpie77]

I have a 96 cummins n14 celect in a fld120. When ever the air compressor is engaged and pumping air my truck makes a ticking noise. As soon as the compressor kicks out the ticking stops. The noise does not sound like air ticking it sounds like a mechanical tick. It almost sounds like its coming from the air dryer on the passenger side not from the drivers side where the compressor is located. It could be coming from up front too. I replaced the dryer and it still does it. Its been doing this for months now its got me puzzled. Other than the ticking everything is working normal. Anyone have any ideas what causing this?

[Mystikal]

I have the same problem on my Volvo 780, 2010 VED13. Stops ticking when the compressor cuts off. I've asked the volvo techs to check it out when its been in the shop before and they said nothing was wrong with the compressor.. but I disagree. Wasn't sounding like that when I first bought her. I'd be interested in this response as well.

[Windwalker]

I've never had that problem with any of the trucks I've driven, but I believe I remember hearing it from others. Never had the chance to go hunting for it.

I would suggest taking a piece of hose. One end up to your ear, the other end "sniffing" for the noise. I think I'd check around the compressor, the air dryer, and any connections in between. Any time the end of the hose gets near the source of the ticking, it will get louder through the hose. Being a gear driven compressor, maybe it's the gear. I'd have to be there and see if I could locate it before I can tell you what to look for. But, see if you can isolate the area first.

[olpie77]

I have found the problem. Seems there was a very small hole rubbed in the braided hose that runs from the compressor to the air dryer. When the compressor would kick in the hole in the hose would make a ticking noise from the air being compressed.

[Orangetxguy]

I have found the problem. Seems there was a very small hole rubbed in the braided hose that runs from the compressor to the air dryer. When the compressor would kick in the hole in the hose would make a ticking noise from the air being compressed.

Good deal!! And...You just taught everyone a lesson.....things that can go wrong that are hard to find!

[Windwalker]

I've never had an air hose rub through on the truck, but I have had a power steering hose do it. When it was replaced, I made sure that it didn't get anywhere close to the frame to do that again. To say that steering becomes a chore is putting it mildly.

Any hoses that come into contact with the frame components, or engine, are subject to wearing through from vibration. Glad you found it before DOT did. Some of those guys have good hearing.

[getting started at 60]

Hello I am new to this form, but I have a problem and I am looking for any help I can get.
I have a volvo 780 2006 and when I set the trailer brakes it keeps losing air until my tanks are empty, even when I am not hooked to a trailer, the air keep coming out of the glade hand, slowly by nonstop until tanks are empty. any know with this could be and what repairs are needed?
thanks

[Orangetxguy]

Hello I am new to this form, but I have a problem and I am looking for any help I can get.
I have a volvo 780 2006 and when I set the trailer brakes it keeps losing air until my tanks are empty, even when I am not hooked to a trailer, the air keep coming out of the glade hand, slowly by nonstop until tanks are empty. any know with this could be and what repairs are needed?
thanks

Was the air leaking from the trailer once the tractor lines were disconnected.....or was the air leaking from the red hose on the tractor, when it was disconnected??

[Windwalker]

Hello I am new to this form, but I have a problem and I am looking for any help I can get.
I have a volvo 780 2006 and when I set the trailer brakes it keeps losing air until my tanks are empty, even when I am not hooked to a trailer, the air keep coming out of the glade hand, slowly by nonstop until tanks are empty. any know with this could be and what repairs are needed?
thanks

Also, you might want to listen at the dash when you shut it down and set the brakes. I had to replace the button valves on mine because of an air leak. Only it didn't just leak when the buttons were pulled out, it also leaked when I was driving if you listened close. I think the valves cost me $70 at the time, and I did the work myself. That cured my problem. I don't know if that's the same for you or not. With the engine running, how often does the compressor kick on?

[getting started at 60]

it was leaking from the red hose of the tractor

[getting started at 60]

Also, you might want to listen at the dash when you shut it down and set the brakes. I had to replace the button valves on mine because of an air leak. Only it didn't just leak when the buttons were pulled out, it also leaked when I was driving if you listened close. I think the valves cost me $70 at the time, and I did the work myself. That cured my problem. I don't know if that's the same for you or not. With the engine running, how often does the compressor kick on?

how hard is it to get to those valves? do you have to remove any of the dash?

[Orangetxguy]

how hard is it to get to those valves? do you have to remove any of the dash?

You can get the valve (buttons) at any truck dealership or truck parts store (NAPA / TRUCKPRO). Do this test. Build your air supply up to 120 psi. Lay both hoses on the quarterfender and release the brakes (both buttons/ use chock blocks for safety), then watch your air pressure. It should stop declining at around 60-65 pounds when the buttons pop out. IF the buttons don't pop out and the air pressure continues to fall, then you need to replace the tractor protection valve, which is on the firewall.

[trucktool]

You can get the valve (buttons) at any truck dealership or truck parts store (NAPA / TRUCKPRO). Do this test. Build your air supply up to 120 psi. Lay both hoses on the quarterfender and release the brakes (both buttons/ use chock blocks for safety), then watch your air pressure. It should stop declining at around 60-65 pounds when the buttons pop out. IF the buttons don't pop out and the air pressure continues to fall, then you need to replace the tractor protection valve, which is on the firewall.

Have you tried this test before you posted it?

At 60 - 65 psi my low-air warning system just came on; not much point in that if my brakes are about to dynamite