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Thread: Inboard & Outboard System???

  1. #1
    Papa Rick's Avatar
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    Default Inboard & Outboard System???

    I took my Trailer yesterday to see about getting the slack adjusters, cam bushings replaced and the mechanic told me that to do the brake job he would have to pull the wheel seal off to get to everything????

    When I asked him why, he told me that my trailer was an older model and that to even change brake pads, this would have to be done (Replace the Wheel Seal) every time???????

    He told me that the brake drum for this type cost a good bit more because it is made together with other parts, and not just a brake drum??

    He told me that I have what they call a Inboard system and it had been phased out several years ago due to the problems that I now face of having to replace the wheel seal just to do general brake work.

    Has anyone heard of this, and if so does this sound right.
    Be Kind To One Another, REMEMBER: You Reap What You Sow!

  2. #2
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    Inboard drums were very common on older equipment. I hated to see them with a passion. In order to change the brakes you do have to change the wheel seal and it does suck. With an outboard drun setup a good mechanic can do a set of brakes in around 2 hours that being all 4 sets on a 2 axles trailer on a inboard drum figure on around 5-6 hours since you have to pull the hub and seals on all the axles then repalce the seals and PRAY like hell you do not damage a bearing knocking it out or cock a seal and damage it. Basically they suck to work on from a mechanics standpoint.

  3. #3
    SilverWulf is offline Member
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    I never minded working on inboard drums. I actually prefer them to the outboards.

    Why? Less lifting to do a brake job. Pull the hub cap, remove nuts, and slide the tandems, brake drum, and hub right off the spindle all in one piece with a wheel dolly. I could easily do a full brake job on a trailer in 1 1/2 hours, sometimes less if everything fell into place.

    With the outboard drums, have to rattle the lugs off, remove tires one at a time, then get help or find a lift to slide the drum off. Sure, can lift a drum off myself but those puppies are heavy.

  4. #4
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    [quote="SilverWulf"]I never minded working on inboard drums. I actually prefer them to the outboards.

    Why? Less lifting to do a brake job. Pull the hub cap, remove nuts, and slide the tandems, brake drum, and hub right off the spindle all in one piece with a wheel dolly.

    The same thing can be done with an outboard drum system... if you can sell them a wheel seal. you don't have to pull the wheels off the hub

    I could easily do a full brake job on a trailer in 1 1/2 hours, sometimes less if everything fell into place.

    *in my opinion* ... an outboard system allows for a quicker shoe/lining swap... unless any problem is encountered, i.e. - seized lug nut, wheel seized on hub pilot, etc. then, it would have been quicker to pull the hub (and change the wheel seal)

    With the outboard drums, have to rattle the lugs off, remove tires one at a time, then get help or find a lift to slide the drum off. Sure, can lift a drum off myself but those puppies are heavy.[/quote

    the advantage of pulling the hub is that the wheel bearings will (can) be inspected. if the wheels/drum is pulled to do a brake job, the bearings cannot be inspected... should be an easy sell?
    Bob H

  5. #5
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    Default

    [quote="bob h"]
    Quote Originally Posted by SilverWulf
    I never minded working on inboard drums. I actually prefer them to the outboards.

    Why? Less lifting to do a brake job. Pull the hub cap, remove nuts, and slide the tandems, brake drum, and hub right off the spindle all in one piece with a wheel dolly.

    The same thing can be done with an outboard drum system... if you can sell them a wheel seal. you don't have to pull the wheels off the hub

    I could easily do a full brake job on a trailer in 1 1/2 hours, sometimes less if everything fell into place.

    *in my opinion* ... an outboard system allows for a quicker shoe/lining swap... unless any problem is encountered, i.e. - seized lug nut, wheel seized on hub pilot, etc. then, it would have been quicker to pull the hub (and change the wheel seal)

    With the outboard drums, have to rattle the lugs off, remove tires one at a time, then get help or find a lift to slide the drum off. Sure, can lift a drum off myself but those puppies are heavy.[/quote

    the advantage of pulling the hub is that the wheel bearings will (can) be inspected. if the wheels/drum is pulled to do a brake job, the bearings cannot be inspected... should be an easy sell?
    Where I'm working now, even if a truck has unimounts with outboard drums, we pull the hub, check the bearings and install a new seal.

    We've found that frequently the wheels seal doesn't last thru the life of another set of brakes, so we might as well just put in a new one at every brake job, rather than end up with a set of brake shoes covered in oil.
    If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.

  6. #6
    allan5oh is offline Senior Board Member
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Splitshifter
    We've found that frequently the wheels seal doesn't last thru the life of another set of brakes, so we might as well just put in a new one at every brake job, rather than end up with a set of brake shoes covered in oil.
    That's what I think too.

    I don't see the point in "reusing" wheel seals either. If the hub comes off, the seal gets changed.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverWulf

    Why? Less lifting to do a brake job. Pull the hub cap, remove nuts, and slide the tandems, brake drum, and hub right off the spindle all in one piece with a wheel dolly.
    So, how do you go about changing the brake drum? Or are you one of those that thinks the drums can make it through 3 sets of linings?

  8. #8
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    you guys when you are talking inboard drums are talkin like the dayton style wheels???
    Truck Driving an occupation consisting of hours of boredom interrupted by sheer terror!!

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mackman
    you guys when you are talking inboard drums are talkin like the dayton style wheels???
    Yeah, or the old type Budds with the inboard drums.
    If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.

  10. #10
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    Default

    So I guess this guy was on the up and up with what he was explaining to me. Does the brake drums for this Inboard cost more than the outboard??


    I think I asked him this and he said yes they were more expensive.
    Be Kind To One Another, REMEMBER: You Reap What You Sow!

  11. #11
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    This is what the estimate is for:


    Part Each Part Total
    2 equalizers (2 bolt 3" wide) 62.50 125.00
    2 adjustable Stablizers 43.20 86.40
    2 Stationary Stablizers 30.00 60.00
    4 Wheel Seals 26.50 106.00
    4 Cam Bushing Kits 26.50 106.00
    4 Hub Cap Gaskets (6 Hole) 1.25 5.00
    4 Manual Slack Adjusters 15.75 63.00
    2 Equalizer Bolts with nuts 15.60 31.20
    1 Bolt grade 8 5"x5/8 2.50 2.50
    Misc - Oil, etc 50.00

    635.10
    Tax 31.75
    Sub Total: 668.85
    14 Hrs Labor 700.00

    Total Estamate: $1366.85


    Does this seem fair since it is an inboard type axles??
    Be Kind To One Another, REMEMBER: You Reap What You Sow!

  12. #12
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    I found a pair of axles (outboard) for $1000.00, plus the labor to put them in will be 14 hours.

    I am thinking about getting this done all at the same time. Would you suggest doing this or waiting?
    Be Kind To One Another, REMEMBER: You Reap What You Sow!

  13. #13
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    Papa rick if I was you I would put those outboard axles under may cost you a little more now but in the long term will save you money since with every brake job you will not be changing the wheel seals. Here is a another money saver have the mechanic pack the bearings in grease instead of oil will last longer and less likely to leak. The roberson companies did that and had a 2 year service interval on the trailer hubs and hardly ever had a seal leak that way. Also most seals will last at least 2 brake jobs nowadays with the improvements in seals.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Part Time Dweller
    Quote Originally Posted by SilverWulf

    Why? Less lifting to do a brake job. Pull the hub cap, remove nuts, and slide the tandems, brake drum, and hub right off the spindle all in one piece with a wheel dolly.
    So, how do you go about changing the brake drum? Or are you one of those that thinks the drums can make it through 3 sets of linings?
    he's referring to an inboard system, the hub has to be pulled first to remove the drum
    Bob H

  15. #15
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    I know that, but he is bragging about the ease of using a wheel dolly and less lifting. My point is, he must not be changing drums, as it is a PIA to do so on a wheel dolly. So, if he isn't changing drums, he isn't doing a complete brake job.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Part Time Dweller
    I know that, but he is bragging about the ease of using a wheel dolly and less lifting. My point is, he must not be changing drums, as it is a PIA to do so on a wheel dolly. So, if he isn't changing drums, he isn't doing a complete brake job.

    he is if the drum is serviceable


    spoke wheel drums are easier to change on a dolly imo
    Bob H

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