Truck Driving Jobs

|

Trucking Jobs

|

Truck Drivers

|

Trucking Companies

 
New Users Register Free Account Here | Existing Forum Members Log In Here
Home | About Us | Contact Us | Testimonials

Class A Drivers.com

Application          Company Listings          Job Search        Load Board
 
  1.   Welcome to the Truck Driving Message Board - ClassADrivers.

    1. Welcome to Class A Drivers Forums

          Already registered? Login above

      OR
       
      To take advantage of all the site's features, become a member of
      the largest community of Truck Drivers.

      The advertising to the left will not show if you are a registered user.

Results 1 to 5 of 5

Thread: Bunk AC

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Spartanburg, SC
    Posts
    42

    Default Bunk AC

    I am having problems with my bunk AC. I have a 1998 Freightliner Century Class with Detroit Series 60. When I am moving my AC works properly. My thermometer reads 40 deg. F at the vent. After I sit for 5 min. or more the gauge reads 50 deg. F and the bunk vent is 70. I stopped at a garage and he added freon, but it was too much. It ended up blowing out the pressure release valve on the side of my condenser. Has anyone had similar problems with their bunk AC? Or AC over-all. If so, what are some solutions?

  2. #2
    roadranger is offline Board Regular
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Junction of MA CT RI (Putnam CT)
    Posts
    246

    Default

    Put an inline valve in the heater hose to the bunk. The factory control valve often leaks and pumps heat into your bunk a/c all the time. Home Depot has a valve with 3/4" hose barbs on it for $7 that will probably fit - my FLD120 uses that size hose. You also need a couple hose clamps. You can clamp off the hose in two spots to cut a chunk out to fit the valve. Make sure the engine is cold and remove the pressure from the system by removing the radiator cap. I did a crappy job of clamping and lost about a quart of coolant - no big deal.

  3. #3
    allan5oh is offline Senior Board Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    jackassville (winnipeg, mb)
    Posts
    3,189

    Default

    Pop the hood open too, just so it's not latched.

    Turn on engine fan if you can.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Spartanburg, SC
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by roadranger
    Put an inline valve in the heater hose to the bunk. The factory control valve often leaks and pumps heat into your bunk a/c all the time. Home Depot has a valve with 3/4" hose barbs on it for $7 that will probably fit - my FLD120 uses that size hose. You also need a couple hose clamps. You can clamp off the hose in two spots to cut a chunk out to fit the valve. Make sure the engine is cold and remove the pressure from the system by removing the radiator cap. I did a crappy job of clamping and lost about a quart of coolant - no big deal.
    Where is that factory control valve located? And once I find it, do I leave it in or remove it? Thanks for your help Roadranger.

  5. #5
    roadranger is offline Board Regular
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Junction of MA CT RI (Putnam CT)
    Posts
    246

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by carolinatrucker
    Where is that factory control valve located? And once I find it, do I leave it in or remove it? Thanks for your help Roadranger.
    In a FLD120 it is an electrically actuated, air operated valve located in the passenger side under-bunk compartment. It is controlled by the bunk temperature control so you probably want to keep it for the winter. I put the inline valve in one of the hoses coming through the floor of the sleeper, right under the floor where the bunk heater and a/c unit is - real easy to get to. By the way, in the FLD120 the regular valve is normally open - Mine was leaking air so I unplugged it and got an instant sauna! I have a slightly used bunk heater I'll put in ths winter so I may go ahead and remove the hoses entirely and plug the connections at the engine - but that requires draining the coolant and refilling. I've done that once to remove a couple of hoses that used to go to a now-rusted-out fuel heater. You have to get some clean containers to use if you want to re-use it. Gas cans work. Afterwards I used a fork lift to raise the containers high enough to use a syphon hose to refill.

  6. This ad will disappear if you login

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Trucking Companies | Trucking Job Search | Online Job Application | Trucking Links | Truck Drivers Message Board | Contact Us | Site Map


Truck Driving Jobs © 2003 - 2012 ClassADrivers.com
 

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0