Charge air cooler??

[marcel27208]

Ok i read a few of my posts before about a gradual loss of power and overhead etc......... a previous poster was telling me that if i just had a cam replaced then i should nt need an overhead(which i dont think i do) but in the past few months i have noticed a gradual loss of power and and a small decrease in MPG.... now the guy was telling me that i should have my charge air cooler(cac) tested cause it may have a small pinhole n it or something.....my question is will it be leaking coolant because i have a small leak somehwhere in the front engine/radiator(very small), i can tell i have one cuz when i pop hood i can see where it has dried at. Reason im asking because i made myself an appt to get overhead done but if i just had cam replaced(it just went out one day while driving along with an injector) should i need to get overhead? is that all an overhead is? So i guess i have 2 questions in one post. thanks in advance for ur help.................. BTW i have a 00 century class detroit 60 series 715k miles

[heavyhaulerss]

i do not see how you would lose power or lose m.p.g because of a coolant leak in radiator. the overhead would of been done while having cam replaced. you dont need an overhead. it is very possible that when you had engine work done, that one of the mechanics accidentaly put a hole in air cooler. this exact thing happened to a trucker friend of mine.

[jorlee]

An overhead is setting of the valves, and jakes

A charge air cooler is exactly that. Takes the charged (pressurized) air from the turbo and cools it, before it enters the engine (cooler air is denser). To test that the shop would do a leak down test. Pressurize it to X PSI and wait to see if it holds pressure.

Best to have the overhead done to make sure everything's in spec, and get the charge cooler tested also.

Make sure you show the shop that spot you see, could be a small coolant leak or an air leak.

[bob h]

Ok i read a few of my posts before about a gradual loss of power and overhead etc......... a previous poster was telling me that if i just had a cam replaced then i should nt need an overhead(which i dont think i do) but in the past few months i have noticed a gradual loss of power and and a small decrease in MPG.... now the guy was telling me that i should have my charge air cooler(cac) tested cause it may have a small pinhole n it or something.....my question is will it be leaking coolant because i have a small leak somehwhere in the front engine/radiator(very small), i can tell i have one cuz when i pop hood i can see where it has dried at. Reason im asking because i made myself an appt to get overhead done but if i just had cam replaced(it just went out one day while driving along with an injector) should i need to get overhead? is that all an overhead is? So i guess i have 2 questions in one post. thanks in advance for ur help.................. BTW i have a 00 century class detroit 60 series 715k miles

s60 - check for cracked intake manifold around mounting bolt flanges

do you have a boost gauge?... and are noticing a drop in manifold pressure (ex - peak boost under load used to be 36psi, now it won't go over 28 ???)

CACs do not use coolant to cool the charged air, it uses ambient air same as the rad

an overhead set adjusts valves, injectors, and jakes. the need to re-do the set would depend on whether or not it was done properly the first time ?!?

[marcel27208]

no i dont have a boost gauge, will have them check the items you said BOB H.......................


On another subject this is what happened while driving today,,,

i was cruising along I-40 in eastern NC on flat land... and all of the sudden my oil pressure went from 50psi to 60psi and my check engine light came on and i had NO power,, i took it off cruise and tried to applie some fuel and nothin at all happened, no reving no nothin, the truck might as well been turned off with me pressing the fuel pedal and no reaction, so ipulled to side of road and put in gear and tried to idle my way to the exit ramp.. after about 2 minutes check engine light went off and i was on my way?????? same thing happened again about 30 miles down the road,,,, but it kicked back in and didnt give me problems the rest of the day.... i checked the codes from shutdwn ovride button and got 23, 46, and 61....the 23 and 46 have been there and were never cleared from long time ago, not sure about the 61--i asked maintenance what it was and he said something about the injector timing reaction or something, he said it sounded like fuel filter though, and the 2nd time i pulled over i drained fuel filter a lil bit and its been ok? anyone have any suggestions??? oh yeah i may add..... when i took it out of gear to try to rev up engine(and of course no response) the oil pressure was fine, it was only at 60psi until i took cruise off about 30 seconds later

[bob h]

no i dont have a boost gauge, will have them check the items you said BOB H.......................


On another subject this is what happened while driving today,,,

i was cruising along I-40 in eastern NC on flat land... and all of the sudden my oil pressure went from 50psi to 60psi and my check engine light came on and i had NO power,, i took it off cruise and tried to applie some fuel and nothin at all happened, no reving no nothin, the truck might as well been turned off with me pressing the fuel pedal and no reaction, so ipulled to side of road and put in gear and tried to idle my way to the exit ramp.. after about 2 minutes check engine light went off and i was on my way?????? same thing happened again about 30 miles down the road,,,, but it kicked back in and didnt give me problems the rest of the day.... i checked the codes from shutdwn ovride button and got 23, 46, and 61....the 23 and 46 have been there and were never cleared from long time ago, not sure about the 61--i asked maintenance what it was and he said something about the injector timing reaction or something, he said it sounded like fuel filter though, and the 2nd time i pulled over i drained fuel filter a lil bit and its been ok? anyone have any suggestions??? oh yeah i may add..... when i took it out of gear to try to rev up engine(and of course no response) the oil pressure was fine, it was only at 60psi until i took cruise off about 30 seconds later

check ecm sensor harness

[marcel27208]

ecm sensor harness..... is that something i can chek myself or need to take to a mechanic? and what exactly does ecm harness do?

[bob h]

ecm sensor harness..... is that something i can chek myself or need to take to a mechanic? and what exactly does ecm harness do?

if you have an engine wiring schematic with connector views and are proficient with a dmm, you can do it yourself... but, since you're even asking........

61 is "injector response time too long", could be a result of the underlying problem....... maybe


hmmmmm, you could remove ecm connectors one at a time and check for green death ?!?

[marcel27208]

took to mechanic today and hooked it up to laptop,,, he replaced the fuel temperature sensor(which i could have done myself) the red engine protection light was blinking b4 he put in...forgot to check if anymore codes were showing up after he changed fuel/temp sensor.... he said that may have been the underlying problem

[marcel27208]

checked codes 2day...... the red engine protection is flashing '25'.... know what that means?? i keep lookin on the internet and cant find a place to decipher the codes and who knows where my owners manual is

[bob h]

checked codes 2day...... the red engine protection is flashing '25'.... know what that means??

"no faults found"

[marcel27208]

ok good........ but my engine protection light will faintly come on every so often... it has done it 2-3 times this past week....its not lit up all the way its kinda just faintly on and it will bounce on and off for about 10 minutes then not do it anymore!??? may it be a sensor or something loose???

[bob h]

ok good........ but my engine protection light will faintly come on every so often... it has done it 2-3 times this past week....its not lit up all the way its kinda just faintly on and it will bounce on and off for about 10 minutes then not do it anymore!??? may it be a sensor or something loose???

the ecm commands that light either on or off by applying ground to the bulb. if it's dim or flickering, you're probably back to a wiring problem... check those ecm connectors

also, check for teflon tape on the retaining bolt threads of one of the forward side (large) ecm connectors

[marcel27208]

is the ECM located around the coolant resevoir on my engine?

[bob h]

is the ECM located around the coolant resevoir on my engine?

no. midway down the cylinder block, just above the oil pan

some of the connectors are secured by snap-type locks, others are held in by a bolt at the center of the connector body

take a look at the seals around the back of the connector before you remove the connector

[Birken Vogt]

If the light is flickering dimly, as in getting intermittently grounded, and no codes are showing, I would not look at connectors for a loose connection, rather I would look at rubbing points of the harness for an intermittent ground...it can be a real PITA to find these things

Birken

[marcel27208]

now its flashing on chk engine light code '62'...whats that code mean???