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Thread: leak in fuel tank

  1. #1
    bibnflannel is offline Member
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    Default leak in fuel tank

    I just noticed when i fueled today the left tank must have a small crack in it behind the support strap about 3/4 the way up the side. I t began dripping down the back side of the tank. My question is, on a Pete 379, can I shut the valves on top of the right tank in order to draw down the left tank quicker, then open the right tank valves, close the left tank valves and not use the left tank till I can fix it? Or does the engine just draw fuel from the left tank and rely on the right tank to bleed over? Or vice versa? I dont want to starve it and have it die on me if Ive got one tank shut off. Thanks

  2. #2
    Rev.Vassago's Avatar
    Rev.Vassago is offline Guest Board Icon
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    Default

    I believe the fuel is drawn off the right tank, but I could be wrong.

  3. #3
    bibnflannel is offline Member
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    Well, after some experimenting with the valves today, I learned that the engine draws from both tanks, you can shut either side off and it will draw from the other..good to know that! Now, does anyone have any suggestions on how to patch a crack in an aluminum tank? Besides taking it off and welding it, how about j b weld? or some othe epoxy solution?. I may just find another tank, I wont know the extent of the crack till I get it off the truck and survey it.

  4. #4
    yoopr is offline Board Icon
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    JB Weld is good stuff and it might work for a Temporary Fix

  5. #5
    special k is offline Board Regular
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    I have a small hole in my tank under the strap too. Mine only leaked when the tank was filled right to the brim. I used an epoxy stick and the strap squeezed it into place. That was almost five years ago and it hasn't leaked since.

  6. #6
    heavyhaulerss's Avatar
    heavyhaulerss is offline Senior Board Member
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    they sell a epoxy type sealer that resists fuel & other solvents. at walmart. this may work well for you.

  7. #7
    repete's Avatar
    repete is online now Senior Board Member
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    I used an epoxy stick like that for a leak on the bottom of fuel tank on my pick up, it lasted for years. The hardest part is cleaning ALL the fuel off it (it said it would stick to a leaking GAS tank). Give it a try, just clean it up with a spray can of brake clean, rough it up a little put it on. If that dosn't work you might find a welding shop that will TIG weld it on the truck without having to drain it. ( as long as fuel level is below the weld area)

  8. #8
    Dejanh is offline BANNED Senior Board Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by repete
    I used an epoxy stick like that for a leak on the bottom of fuel tank on my pick up, it lasted for years. The hardest part is cleaning ALL the fuel off it (it said it would stick to a leaking GAS tank). Give it a try, just clean it up with a spray can of brake clean, rough it up a little put it on. If that dosn't work you might find a welding shop that will TIG weld it on the truck without having to drain it. ( as long as fuel level is below the weld area)
    Diesel is oily

  9. #9
    Kranky's Avatar
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    Just do it the right way. Get it welded.

    Usually the area under the straps is corroded all the way around the tank, so the best method is to weld a band over the entire area that is corroded.

    This may make it tough to get the straps back on due to the slightly increased diameter of the tank in the repaired area, but you can then weld an extension on the T bolt on one end of the straps if necessary.

    I always air test the tank after welding and before re installation to be sure there are no pinholes in the welds.

    If you're still considering one of those temporary methods, just keep in mind that a dripping leak anywhere in the fuel system (including the tank)
    will put you OOS if you get inspected.

    The right way is the best way.
    If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.

  10. #10
    repete's Avatar
    repete is online now Senior Board Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dejanh
    Quote Originally Posted by repete
    I used an epoxy stick like that for a leak on the bottom of fuel tank on my pick up, it lasted for years. The hardest part is cleaning ALL the fuel off it (it said it would stick to a leaking GAS tank). Give it a try, just clean it up with a spray can of brake clean, rough it up a little put it on. If that dosn't work you might find a welding shop that will TIG weld it on the truck without having to drain it. ( as long as fuel level is below the weld area)
    Diesel is oily
    that's why I said fuel tank instead of gas tank, it has a 6.2L diesel in it 435,000 miles paid for itself many times over!

  11. #11
    special k is offline Board Regular
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    My old truck was a 88 T-6 I had 1 tank banded NEVER AGAIN!! It was corroded under they straps so they put a band at both straps looked good still leaked. Come to find out they never repaired the actual hole and fuel was getting between the tank and the band and would slowly seep at any pinhole. Than we had to move the tank back 6" so it fit in the saddlesproperly. Looked like crap! I had that tank off the truck 3 times in 2 weeks and repaired on the truck 2 more times. Thank god it was the passenger side tank and I could run without it. If you get it banded than I would epoxy it all the way around under the banding before they weld it.

  12. #12
    Kranky's Avatar
    Kranky is offline Senior Board Member
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    Come to find out they never repaired the actual hole and fuel was getting between the tank and the band and would slowly seep at any pinhole.
    That's cause they didn't do this:
    I always air test the tank after welding and before re installation to be sure there are no pinholes in the welds.
    You must air pressure test it and re-weld any spots that are leaking.

    Than we had to move the tank back 6" so it fit in the saddlesproperly.
    To fix that problem, I stated this:
    This may make it tough to get the straps back on due to the slightly increased diameter of the tank in the repaired area, but you can then weld an extension on the T bolt on one end of the straps if necessary.
    When you can keep the banded areas partially hidden under the tank straps, the repair is much less noticeable.

    Whoever fixed your tank did it half assed.

    When done right, and pressure tested, you don't need that epoxy BS.
    If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.

  13. #13
    coastie's Avatar
    coastie is offline Board Regular
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    Default Re: leak in fuel tank

    Quote Originally Posted by bibnflannel
    I just noticed when i fueled today the left tank must have a small crack in it behind the support strap about 3/4 the way up the side. I t began dripping down the back side of the tank. My question is, on a Pete 379, can I shut the valves on top of the right tank in order to draw down the left tank quicker, then open the right tank valves, close the left tank valves and not use the left tank till I can fix it? Or does the engine just draw fuel from the left tank and rely on the right tank to bleed over? Or vice versa? I dont want to starve it and have it die on me if Ive got one tank shut off. Thanks
    I drove a Cabover that had a crack Fuel Tank. The Boss welded it 2 times before he got it stoppewd. The Driver before me used a bar of soap to stop the leak till he got it back to the yard.
    Give me the Sea or the Open Road

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