Clutch question

[vontrial]

I have a 2000 frtliner with a Det. Engine,eaton fuller trans,took it in to have clutch adjusted they said it was a self adjusting clutch and could not be adjusted. My question is what is the best clutch out on the market,and would you go back with a self adjusting clutch. I do not know if this is the original clutch. 762000 miles

[bob h]

I have a 2000 frtliner with a Det. Engine,eaton fuller trans,took it in to have clutch adjusted they said it was a self adjusting clutch and could not be adjusted. My question is what is the best clutch out on the market,and would you go back with a self adjusting clutch. I do not know if this is the original clutch. 762000 miles

otr truck? probably original...

1. hold the clutch pedal on the floor, move adjuster tab through the slot until it is in the "NEW" position, hold it there and release the clutch pedal.

2. remove all free-play from clutch linkage.

3. push clutch pedal to the floor at least 5 full strokes.

that is a re-set procedure. a solo should not require adjustment, but you should re-set it from time to time so that it doesn't seize (same as a manual adjusted clutch).

is there currently a problem with your clutch?

[allan5oh]

I've talked to many mechanics and they despise the self-adjusting clutches. Nothing but problems. I have a manual one in mine, and adjust it once every 6 months.

[vontrial]

No problem with clutch yet,some drivers recommend the Spicer EZ pedal clutch,will go check on it today

[bob h]

I've talked to many mechanics and they despise the self-adjusting clutches. Nothing but problems. I have a manual one in mine, and adjust it once every 6 months.

that's because they're (relatively) new to the industry, and those mechanics probably don't understand them... aka - fear of the unknown.

imo

i know of entire fleets of trucks that have never so much as had the clutch inspection cover removed during the clutch's service life. when i worked at the dealer, we were changing skids of them, 99% of them based on "mystery" complaints that we were not able to reproduce on a road test.

the odd one is problematic, but i think most are absolutely maintenance-free (even though they're not intended to be).

[RockyMtnProDriver]

I've talked to many mechanics and they despise the self-adjusting clutches. Nothing but problems. I have a manual one in mine, and adjust it once every 6 months.

I had the self adjusting clutches in both of my 1999 Int Eagles swapped for manual adjusting clutches.

Although the clutches should last the same amount of time, I find that the students can be overly rough on them and it tends to knock them out of adjustment and it just makes it easier to stay on top of them working properly.

And clutch brakes.....lets not talk about them. We tend to do them twice a year at least.

[Kranky]

And clutch brakes.....lets not talk about them. We tend to do them twice a year at least.

Hope you're using the 2 piece replacement clutch brakes.

Pulling the trans to replace a clutch brake is an unnecessary PITA.

[allan5oh]

And clutch brakes.....lets not talk about them. We tend to do them twice a year at least.

Due to pushing the pedal all the way to the floor?

First time I drove my dads truck I did that. I haven't done it since!

[RockyMtnProDriver]

Ya, the students tend to drive the peddle right to the floor, as that is how they drive there cars.

We do use the one that can be slipped in without taking out the tranny.

[Porchclimber]

Even if it's a one piece anybody with a torch and a good eye can cut it out and then just replace it with a two piece.

I'd grind that thing into gear and drive as fast as I could get away from anybody that wanted to pull the trans to change a clutch brake.

[Kranky]

Even if it's a one piece anybody with a torch and a good eye can cut it out and then just replace it with a two piece.

I'd grind that thing into gear and drive as fast as I could get away from anybody that wanted to pull the trans to change a clutch brake.

I've removed a few clutch brakes using the torch method, and it sure as hell ain't fun with all that molten metal falling in my face.

It's also risky 'cause the input shaft seal is right there & if it gets too hot, then the trans will have to come out anyway! (Been lucky & didn't have that happen)

Since then, "i've used nothing but the 2 piece type, even when a trans is re installed after a clutch replacement or whatever, I put the 2 piece in anyway.

Sure saves a lot of cussin' later on.

[bob h]

quote="Splitshifter"]quote="Porchclimber"]Even if it's a one piece anybody with a torch and a good eye can cut it out and then just replace it with a two piece.

yeah, instead how about; anyone that's proficient with a cutting torch, i've seen plenty of guys "with a torch and a good eye" that were able to sucessfully destory the clutch shaft, release bearing, or their own flesh =)

I'd grind that thing into gear and drive as fast as I could get away from anybody that wanted to pull the trans to change a clutch brake.[/quote]

that's a fairly dramatic method of saying "no, i'll opt for the 2-piece clutch brake instead"

I've removed a few clutch brakes using the torch method, and it sure as hell ain't fun with all that molten metal falling in my face.

i've never had issues with the metal/slag, it's the burning/smoking/dripping globs of grease that ruins all my fun

It's also risky 'cause the input shaft seal is right there & if it gets too hot, then the trans will have to come out anyway! (Been lucky & didn't have that happen)

why would you be heating up the input bearing retainer?... never had that problem before either

Since then, "i've used nothing but the 2 piece type, even when a trans is re installed after a clutch replacement or whatever, I put the 2 piece in anyway.

HUH? you're pulling my leg, right?!?

you are aware that the current 1-piece brakes are torque limiting brakes that "break-free" when the rotational load is too great?

i.e. - the brake slips internally when the clutch pedal is held to the floor while the vehicle is moving with trans in gear... greatly reducing the chance of brake destruction

why would you take that feature away from the owner to make your job easier (maybe) down the road?

I completely disagree with that recommendation IMO

Sure saves a lot of cussin' later on.[/quote

not for the owner; who will now have to replace that brake when his driver slips up once or twice.

from my experiences; a properly maintained/adjusted clutch assembly accompanied by a torque limiting brake will probably never require a brake be replaced until the clutch is worn out... at least, that's what i see around here... good luck with that sales pitch

[Kranky]

bobh wrote:

HUH? you're pulling my leg, right?!?

you are aware that the current 1-piece brakes are torque limiting brakes that "break-free" when the rotational load is too great?

i.e. - the brake slips internally when the clutch pedal is held to the floor while the vehicle is moving with trans in gear... greatly reducing the chance of brake destruction

why would you take that feature away from the owner to make your job easier (maybe) down the road?

I completely disagree with that recommendation IMO

Sure saves a lot of cussin' later on.[/quote

not for the owner; who will now have to replace that brake when his driver slips up once or twice.

from my experiences; a properly maintained/adjusted clutch assembly accompanied by a torque limiting brake will probably never require a brake be replaced until the clutch is worn out... at least, that's what i see around here... good luck with that sales pitch

Not a sales pitch.

This was my own fleet of dump trucks I'm referring to.

A couple guys would tear up the torque limiting clutch brakes just as readily as any others, so it was a case of saving the owner (me) from cussing when I had to go under there & replace the S.O.B.

[bob h]

bobh wrote:

HUH? you're pulling my leg, right?!?

you are aware that the current 1-piece brakes are torque limiting brakes that "break-free" when the rotational load is too great?

i.e. - the brake slips internally when the clutch pedal is held to the floor while the vehicle is moving with trans in gear... greatly reducing the chance of brake destruction

why would you take that feature away from the owner to make your job easier (maybe) down the road?

I completely disagree with that recommendation IMO

Sure saves a lot of cussin' later on.[/quote

not for the owner; who will now have to replace that brake when his driver slips up once or twice.

from my experiences; a properly maintained/adjusted clutch assembly accompanied by a torque limiting brake will probably never require a brake be replaced until the clutch is worn out... at least, that's what i see around here... good luck with that sales pitch

Not a sales pitch.

This was my own fleet of dump trucks I'm referring to.

A couple guys would tear up the torque limiting clutch brakes just as readily as any others, so it was a case of saving the owner (me) from cussing when I had to go under there & replace the S.O.B.

understood.

your previous post seemed to have influenced that everyone should request a 2-piece brake at clutch replacement... which is wrong in most situations... and will just get you a lot of funny looks from the techs in the service bay

[Bobby]

[quote="bob h"]
[b]
you are aware that the current 1-piece brakes are torque limiting brakes that "break-free" when the rotational load is too great?

i.e. - the brake slips internally when the clutch pedal is held to the floor while the vehicle is moving with trans in gear... greatly reducing the chance of brake destruction


So that's what "torque limiting clutch brake" means/does.
I saw it on my spec. sheet, but was curious about the "torque limiting function"
Makes sense now.

I'll bet alot of drivers and truck owners are not aware of some of the developments in the newer trucks today.

Question: Is it ok to over ajust the clutch, so the time between ajustments is extended ?

[bob h]

[quote="Bobby"]

[b]
you are aware that the current 1-piece brakes are torque limiting brakes that "break-free" when the rotational load is too great?

i.e. - the brake slips internally when the clutch pedal is held to the floor while the vehicle is moving with trans in gear... greatly reducing the chance of brake destruction


So that's what "torque limiting clutch brake" means/does.
I saw it on my spec. sheet, but was curious about the "torque limiting function"
Makes sense now.

I'll bet alot of drivers and truck owners are not aware of some of the developments in the newer trucks today.

Question: Is it ok to over ajust the clutch, so the time between ajustments is extended ?

less than 12.4 mm of release travel can cause clutch drag, not worth the risk IMO

you also cannot "choose" your pedal free travel when resetting a solo clutch... whatever the proper internal adjustment leaves is what you get