antifreeze and trans fluid??? OPPOSING VIEWS WELCOME

[xzostd1]

What kind of antifreeze should I use when starting from empty and clean.

What kind of trans fluid in my Meritor 10 starting from empty keeping in mind that -25F is not unusual (And that is NOT windchill)

Cost is not a factor ....But easy availability is!
Opposing views are welcome
Bill

[COLT]

If you have coolant filters, use green, 50/50 mix or 60/40. No coolant filters, use red, long life, normally premixed. Trany, I'd go with a 50wt synthetic oil. I.M.O.

[bob h]

What kind of antifreeze should I use when starting from empty and clean.

What kind of trans fluid in my Meritor 10 starting from empty keeping in mind that -25F is not unusual (And that is NOT windchill)

Cost is not a factor ....But easy availability is!
Opposing views are welcome
Bill

What kind of truck, what engine, what year, what's in it now?

For Trans and diffs... always synthetic!!!

[xzostd1]

What kind of antifreeze should I use when starting from empty and clean.

What kind of trans fluid in my Meritor 10 starting from empty keeping in mind that -25F is not unusual (And that is NOT windchill)

Cost is not a factor ....But easy availability is!
Opposing views are welcome
Bill

What kind of truck, what engine, what year, what's in it now?

For Trans and diffs... always synthetic!!!

1Million mile 2001 Volvo w/ N14
I know that the trans and rear diff's have synthetic in them now but don't know what kind.
Thanks in advance
Bill

[bob h]

What kind of antifreeze should I use when starting from empty and clean.

What kind of trans fluid in my Meritor 10 starting from empty keeping in mind that -25F is not unusual (And that is NOT windchill)

Cost is not a factor ....But easy availability is!
Opposing views are welcome
Bill

What kind of truck, what engine, what year, what's in it now?

For Trans and diffs... always synthetic!!!

1Million mile 2001 Volvo w/ N14
I know that the trans and rear diff's have synthetic in them now but don't know what kind.
Thanks in advance
Bill

75w90 in the diffs, 75w140 is ok as well (but, I think it's pricey).

50w in the trans.

[xzostd1]

Thanks for the help guys. I have a concern that the green antifreeze in my trk.. is auto antifreeze which If I understand correctly has a higher than needed silicate level.
Bill

[traveler15301]

You (and everyone for that matter) should consider NPG. I am not a spokeman or salesman I just belive in it.
A company called Evans makes Evans NPG (non-aqueous propylene glycol)....this stuff is great!!!

No mixing...you run it full strength...and at minimal (or no) pressure!!

Higher boling point than any ethylene glycol mix out there. If you want to know all the engineering mumbo jumbo check out their website....less cavitation wear on cylinder sleeves, longer water pump and hose life the benefits are numerous.
Million mile service life (and then some)...works with or without coolant filtration (although better with) you just must be certain that you get the filter without the chemical additves..the "little rocks" as I call them...but if you want the real poop check out their site.
Any truck I will ever own will be converted to it toute suite!!!

[bob h]

You (and everyone for that matter) should consider NPG. I am not a spokeman or salesman I just belive in it.
A company called Evans makes Evans NPG (non-aqueous propylene glycol)....this stuff is great!!!

No mixing...you run it full strength...and at minimal (or no) pressure!!

Higher boling point than any ethylene glycol mix out there. If you want to know all the engineering mumbo jumbo check out their website....less cavitation wear on cylinder sleeves, longer water pump and hose life the benefits are numerous.
Million mile service life (and then some)...works with or without coolant filtration (although better with) you just must be certain that you get the filter without the chemical additves..the "little rocks" as I call them...but if you want the real poop check out their site.
Any truck I will ever own will be converted to it toute suite!!!

I would recommend that everyone use (and maintain) your cooling system exactly as the engine manufacturer suggests.

that's my 02

[thejunkman]

LOL. Good answer BoB H. Just because a coolant/antifreeze is green does not make it harmfull to a diesel engine. There are 2 different versions of the green stuff. High/normal silicate for use in aluminum based engines(prestone,walmart,zerex, etc) are brands that under normal strength are not approved for most diesel engines.

Low Silicate versions will carry all the specs for the major engine manufacturuers on the back, such as Mack specs, Cummins specs, Cat, Detroit, etc Im sure Prestone, Zerex, etc all have a version of it, but you have to look for it, because as I know of walmart only has the 50/50 red stuff(full force?) that is spec'ed for diesel. Tractor Supply's house brand is Low Silicate, as is many auto parts stores brands.

Green will definatly need the most attention in a linered engine(your n14 has liners) Since it doesnt have any levels of SCA, you will either need a time released filter with the cooling additive in it or youll need to add a few bottles of the liquid form to your engine. Either way you should properly test and monitor the SCA levels on a regular basis.

The red coolant will usually last much longer than the regular green. I see the back of Final Charge says 600,000 miles of protection. It is suppose to have enough coolant additive already in it to last for 600,000 miles. However I would still keep my eye on the levels. Fleet Charge is purple based, and only has enough SCA for the inital treatment.

Keep your filter changed regularly, and you shouldnt have a problem. If you do decided to go with a longer life coolant, check the Truck parts shops 1st. You will go broke buying 50/50 mix when youll need 2 times as many bottles, and atleast around here the full strength is priced about the same as the diluted. Fleet Charge has additives in it to make using tap water safe, or you can buy distilled water from any market for cheaper than 1/2 of the 10 gallon of pre mix. $5 for 2 qts Coolant, $5 for 2 qts water.

[bob h]

Use treated, conventional green diesel coolant ONLY in N14s... the OAT coolants (extended life) will destroy the rocker housing gaskets... btdt.

[bob h]

A "charged" coolant filter should only be replaced based on a coolant additive "strip" test...

...same as adding a bottle of DCA... which, at least 1 will be required during a flush, I usually put 2 to start.

[xzostd1]

Use treated, conventional green diesel coolant ONLY in N14s... the OAT coolants (extended life) will destroy the rocker housing gaskets... btdt.

I installed Green low silicate with distilled water...After installing my Webasco...Thank You Bob for the advice!!!

[bob h]

Use treated, conventional green diesel coolant ONLY in N14s... the OAT coolants (extended life) will destroy the rocker housing gaskets... btdt.

I installed Green low silicate with distilled water...After installing my Webasco...Thank You Bob for the advice!!!

Don't forget to monitor the additive (DCA) closely, there are probably more diesels rebuilt due to cavitation damage then for maintenance reasons. Do not replace pre-charged coolant filters unless the DCA level is low.

[traveler15301]

there are probably more diesels rebuilt due to cavitation damage then for maintenance reasons.

Precisely the reason to use NPG. It has demonstrated much less (actually near ZERO) cavitation wear than ethylene glycol mix (even with "proper" DCA levels maintained)!

[bob h]

there are probably more diesels rebuilt due to cavitation damage then for maintenance reasons.

Precisely the reason to use NPG. It has demonstrated much less (actually near ZERO) cavitation wear than ethylene glycol mix (even with "proper" DCA levels maintained)!

Is it compatible with EG?

[traveler15301]

Is it compatible with EG?

It has been a while since I checked out the particulars but I seem to recall it is...chemically they are compatible but if you have EG (and H2O as well if it is a mix) you lose a lot of the advantages of NPG by mixing.

I know Evans recommends fluhshing your system with H2O, draining completely then filling with NPG. They then recommend using no pressure on the system so the residual water can evaporate leaving 100% NPG. It has a higher boiling point than 50/50 mix even at 15 psig.

I also put it in my 7.3 ford and they recommend drilling a 1/8" hole in the factory cap...let's the water evap and does not build pressure.

I'm sure you can run it under pressure with no harm (it would actually elevate the bp just like with EG...but why bother...it is already higher!!!), but one of the added benefits is the no pressure situation...less stress on all the involved parts...hoses, seals and especially the water pump.

As I said, my opinions are unqualified and I don't sell the stuff ('though my touting my make it seem so...)....I just checked them out and liked it.

damn near 100k on the pickup and over 200k on the big truck and no problems at all....

If you want the real skinny check out their web site....I don't know how to post links but just google Evans NPG

[Birken Vogt]

Precisely the reason to use NPG. It has demonstrated much less (actually near ZERO) cavitation wear than ethylene glycol mix (even with "proper" DCA levels maintained)!

That's what the company that sells it claims anyway.

It contains no water so it has nowhere near the "thermal density" of a correct water containing mix, leading to the possibility of hot spots in the engine. You never can tell without extensive (expensive) factory data so I would not do it.

For me I run Fleet Charge or Chevron Heavy Duty mixed with distilled water from a grocery store. They are conventional the same as green but they have the anti-cavitiation additive premixed so they are pink instead. Low silicate and all that. The best thing is they are cheaper than motor oil now, I think overall cost was $8.00 per gallon last bunch I bought so I do a simple drain and refill the radiator every year, cheap insurance. Nothing to it.

Birken