Tires Vibrate At Low Speeds...

[Neckster]

I just had new Firestone front steers installed. Everything seems to be fine when driving except for at about 30 mph the truck vibrates pretty bad, at around 35 mph the virbration goes away. I did not have the front end aligned, and the truck does not appear to pull to one side or the other when I let go of the wheel. This appears to be on the driver’s side. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Neckster

It could be many things other than the steers. I would think a mechanic could check out the front end pretty quick and determine if something was wrong with the front end and then go from there. Could be the drive shaft or something along those lines.

I have a Mustang that vibrates at 62mph. Bugged me for a long time until the dealer told me it was the convertible top. With the top down, no vibration. Just happened to hit the harmonic frequency at 62.

[bob h]

I just had new Firestone front steers installed. Everything seems to be fine when driving except for at about 30 mph the truck vibrates pretty bad, at around 35 mph the virbration goes away. I did not have the front end aligned, and the truck does not appear to pull to one side or the other when I let go of the wheel. This appears to be on the driver’s side. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Neckster

Do you feel the vibration in the steering wheel or in the seat/floor? It definitely sounds like a tire vibration... well, obviously it's a tire vibration as it appears as though it started after the steer tires were replaced, right? Were the tires balanced? Hmmmm, that's a "no-brainer", so that's likely been done.

OK, jack up the suspect side of the vehicle (first), then kneel down and look just across the top of the tire tread... now spin the tire, does the tire wobble back and forth, or up and down?

Also, there should be a raised line on the tire that runs parallel to the edge of the rim... again, spin the tire and watch that line, does the line disappear under the rim? That can identify an improperly mounted tire.

Also, watch the wheel/wheel mounting as well. Improper torque sequence, debris on the hub flange, etc can cause the wheel to wobble.

If wheel alignment was the problem, it would have existed (???) before you replaced the tires. Wheel alignment rarely causes vibration... it will often damage a tire which will in turn vibrate as a result of the damage.

New tires (even defective new tires) do not commonly cause pull. In H/D trucks, pull is most often caused by rear axle alignment (dog-tracking, or scrub). Unless funny/odd wear patterns show up on the front tires.

Remember, if the vibration wasn't there before the tire replacement, the tires are most likely the cause.

I wouldn't be so sure which side it's on... that can be very misleading.

[Neckster]

Very good information Bob, and thanks for the reply. When I bought the truck the front tires were not in too bad of shape. The drivers side tire was cupped on the out side, but still had a lot of tread on it. The passenger side was in good shape and was not cupped.

I did not watch the shop install the tires, and do not know if thet were balanced. The virbration is noticed mostly on the same side as the tire... drivers side, and is noticed in the drivers door and mirror. Like I said it's only at about 30 mph then it goes away.

Do you recommend conducting your test first, or bringing it back to the shop? as I said it dosen't appear to be pulling to any one side, which is hard to determine as the roads are not flat and even. With the other tires on I had no problems as to pulling to one side or virbrating. I have not pulled a load yet since I had the new tires put on.

Thanks

[bob h]

Do you recommend conducting your test first, or bringing it back to the shop?
Thanks

If the condition was not there before, I would take it back.

P.s. - if you did not request a balance, I would doubt that it was done. I would want to see the tire run true before they balance it, as balancing may mask a tire problem.

[Neckster]

I just called the shop and they did balance the tires. I have to bring it back and they will check it out. Thanks for the help and info.

Neckster

[wot i life]

Bet now you,ve had the balancing re-done they,ll be ok....
Don,t forget to check the nuts after 50k or so...
I know thats telling a granny how to suck eggs, but, a lot of drivers do forget :wink:

[bob h]

Bet now you,ve had the balancing re-done they,ll be ok....
Don,t forget to check the nuts after 50k or so...
I know thats telling a granny how to suck eggs, but, a lot of drivers do forget :wink:

Wheels should be re-torqued @ 500-1000 in-service miles, they'd fall off by the time you hit 50,000.

[wot i life]

Aherm.. Aherm... Coughing loudly......
50k To a European driver means 50 kilometres..... not 50,000
You say potahto I say potato.....

[bob h]

Aherm.. Aherm... Coughing loudly......
50k To a European driver means 50 kilometres..... not 50,000
You potahto I say potato.....

LOL! ...serious?

If you add one more letter, it becomes non-negotiable ; 50km ~~~SEE!

[allan5oh]

Bet now you,ve had the balancing re-done they,ll be ok....
Don,t forget to check the nuts after 50k or so...
I know thats telling a granny how to suck eggs, but, a lot of drivers do forget :wink:

Wheels should be re-torqued @ 500-1000 in-service miles, they'd fall off by the time you hit 50,000.

Common misconception. If they were torqued right the first time, they do not ever need to be retorqued. Shops just tell you this to cover their ass!

[bob h]

Wheels should be re-torqued @ 500-1000 in-service miles, they'd fall off by the time you hit 50,000.

Common misconception. If they were torqued right the first time, they do not ever need to be retorqued. Shops just tell you this to cover their ass!

I agree with this practice... Accuride seems to as well ;

http://www.accuridewheels.com/Safety...tion%20XII.pdf

Although I do apologize, they state "after 50 to 100 miles of operation".

I'd call it cheap insurance... if you wanna make it even cheaper, buy your own 3/4 drive torque wrench. Wheel-off is NO Fun!

[xzostd1]

I'd call it cheap insurance... if you wanna make it even cheaper, buy your own 3/4 drive torque wrench. Wheel-off is NO Fun![/quote]

A BIG torque wrench..............450ft#
Bill

[bob h]

I'd call it cheap insurance... if you wanna make it even cheaper, buy your own 3/4 drive torque wrench. Wheel-off is NO Fun!

A BIG torque wrench..............450ft#
Bill[/quote]

Actually, 600 ft/lbs would be recommended, 450 is MINIMUM torque on a disc wheel (hub piloted). A torque wrench should not be used at extreme ends of the scale.

[Neckster]

Well I went back to the T.A. where I had the new tires installed. I advised them of the problem and they said they would check it out. A different Tech. said the tires were not balanced properly in the first place and he would correct it. So after spin balancing them he adds and changes where the wheel weights are located on the tires, then he switched sides with tire/rim. He mentioned that my one rim was a little out of whack. He added 12 weights to one, and 8 to the other. He said this should work fine. He also advised me the on one wheel 4 lugs were loose, and the other wheel had 2 lugs loose from the guy who changed the tires before, apparently he never tightened them properly. Then I asked if they were torqued, and he said they don't have a torque wrench, as he's been trying to have the T.A. buy one.

I was in a hurry as I was under a load and needed to move quickly. I did not get to take it for a test drive. So I left. Well I get down the road and low and behold the shack and shimmy is still there at about 30 mph. It appears that nothing has changed at all. As indicated before with the old tires there was never any shake or shimmy... none.

So today I’m heading back down to the T.A. again to have this check out.
Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks.

[COLT]

"The drivers side tire was cupped on the out side, but still had a lot of tread on it. The passenger side was in good shape and was not cupped." I THINK, you have the answer. "Use the force Luke"

[Neckster]

Please explain... what do you mean? The T.A. can't get me in until Monday, and I don't know of anyone else around who could balance the tires... this sucks... new tires and nothing but problems!

[Rev.Vassago]

So today I’m heading back down to the T.A. again to have this check out.
Any tips or suggestions?

Thanks.

Yes - stop going to truck stops for your tire needs, and go to a REPUTABLE tire shop. :wink:

[COLT]

Put the truck on an alignment rack, before you wreck your new skins!

[bob h]

Put the truck on an alignment rack, before you wreck your new skins!

He has already explained that the truck did not shake before the tires were replaced... even with the cupped driver's side tire.

Oh, since you've brought it up; what exactly do you think causes cupping on the outer edge of a driver's side tire?

Next, how do you think they managed to throw off the alignment by installing new steer tires?

Just curious... it's got make sense to me... otherwise, it's just an opinion.