User Tag List

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 04-26-2009, 04:35 AM
lowrange's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: continental 48
Posts: 587
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default How would you go about getting your truck refurbished?

I'm really close to a million miles now. I sat at the Grover Cleveland service plaza on the NJTPK tonight looking at a Truck Paper. What do they say, better the devil you know than the devil you don't- something like that?

Anyway, my truck is running great, but I'm concerned about taking it for granted. One of the bad things about buying a newer truck right now is losing this pre-EGR engine. So, I'm sitting here thinking, wouldn't it be better to put maybe $10,000 into the truck I have than to go out and spend $30,000 for a truck and then have to work all the bugs out of it?

Rutherford talks about changing the fuel lines on an older truck. I look at all the pulleys on the front of my ISX- one of them broke awhile back. Maybe it would be a good idea to replace all of those pulleys before they break again. But, what else? I don't know truck maintenance. Where could I go to have a shop go over my truck and replace things that look too worn and things that often break on older trucks? I guess all these rusty coolant tubes could be replaced. Hoses and rubber parts, too. So, who would do that? Would $10,000 be enough? I don't need engine work.

Rutherford works with some outfit that does glider kits. Probably a place like that would know what to look for to "refurbish" a million mile truck. I'm telling you, I get good oil samples and I add no oil between changes. No oil leaks, either. Anyway, ever dumped a bunch of money into an older truck trying to avoid blowing it on roadside service and wrecker fees? Ever refurbish a truck to take it up to a million and a half with confidence?

TIA
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-26-2009, 10:04 AM
BanditsCousin's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Chicago, IL
Posts: 3,800
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

Any kind of bushing you can think of wears out and could possibly use replacement. Questionable fuel/air fittings and lines are also a good thing to look at. Since your pulley broke ( cumulative stress?) then replacing them all wouldn't be a bad Idea if its relatively cheap.

And get a Turbo 3000
__________________
Mud, sweat, and gears
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-26-2009, 12:51 PM
GMAN's Avatar
Administrator
Site Admin
Board Icon
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 17,097
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

This company sells glider kits and trucks. It is my understanding that they will do as much or little as you want with a truck. They are near Crossville, TN I believe. You can see their facility from I-40. I don't know much about them. They advertise in The Truckpaper.

FITZGERALD TRUCK PARTS & SALES
Phone: (866)597-3836
or (931)277-3836


I am not sure that I would start replacing things that are not yet worn out. On the other hand, if it makes you feel more comfortable and can afford it, then I would go for it. You could start by replacing all air hoses from the compressor back. If you have never rebuilt or replaced the compressor, then that is something you could do. The air governor that comes out of the compressor is inexpensive and could be replaced. Replacing all heater and radiator hoses and clamps could save you some aggravation at some point. I know one guy who replaces his hoses each year as a preventative. I usually wait until the hoses feel soft. Hoses are not expensive if you can replace them yourself. You could go from the front to the sleeper. It is the ones going to the sleeper that many people forget to check.

You could pull the inspection plates on your rears to see if there is any metal fragments present. If so, there is a good likelihood you will need to replace your rear shortly. I know of one guy you replaces his rears when they get a certain number of miles on them regardless of their obvious condition. He may also rebuild the transmission. He has his own shop and can do the work himself. He will also regularly replace the lower engine bearings when the engine gets a certain number of miles on them. It is not very expensive to drop the oil pan and replace them. It is a good idea to at least have an inspection done on them. You could also replace your injectors and sleeves. If you plan on keeping the truck those are things you could do a little at a time until everything has been done. It isn't uncommon to drop an injector tip. If that happens then you are talking about some expensive engine work. An overhead should be done at regular intervals. That is another thing that is inexpensive. I know of some who do them annually and others who will do an overhead every 200,000-250,000 miles. It is a good way to check everything on top of the engine and replace it if needed.

Other things which are subject to fail at some point are air conditioner compressors and alternators. I used to keep a spare alternator in my truck. I am not suggesting you replace all these things, but they are things which could be done as a preventative. I would not replace the air conditioner compressor, but you could rebuild or replace the alternator if it has been on the truck for some time. Or you could get a spare alternator and have it on hand when the current one fails. They are not very expensive if you can buy one locally and are simple to change out yourself.

Suspensions are something that wear out on an older truck. Air bags and springs can be rebuilt or replaced. Air bags cost about $40. Springs and torsion bars can get into more money. I just spend $1,400 to replace torsion bars on my flat bed and do a couple of other minor things. It is an older flat bed and the bushings were not available so I had to have torsion bars made for it with new bushings. The torsion bars ran about $220 each. Had I been able to just replace the bushings it could have been done for about $18.00. So, I would look at all of your bushings and replace those that are worn. As your truck ages it may be more difficult to find some parts.

Check your fifth wheel for wear. King pins wear out at some point and will need to be replaces as will other front end parts. I usually don't replace front end parts until they need replacing. Keeping an eye on tire wear and having regular alignments done can spot potential problems before they get out of hand. If you grease your moving parts often you can minimize the wear and prolong life, especially on front end parts. One other thing that comes to mind are u-joints. Those will fail at some point. I believe the last one I replaced I paid about $25 or $35 for the part. If a u-joint fails you could be stuck on he side of the road. One fleet with whom I am familiar will replace their u-joints when the trucks get a certain number of miles as a preventative.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:04 PM
RostyC's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,303
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

I have an older truck Lowrange and the list grows every day with the things I'd like to do but some of the things I've done since I bought it was new power steering fluid lines, fuel lines, silicone coolant hoses. Over the summer I'd like to start replacing some air lines. Other things I've done is just basic maintenance, brakes, shocks, etc...

I need new air filter cans and I think I'm going with Stainless steel ones so I don't have to paint the whole truck to match the new cans, otherwise I like the painted ones. Front end (brackets, bushings and springs)and a power steering pump are my next hurdles. Gotta get the A/C fixed soon too. I'd also like to focus on the driveline as well.

Having said all that I see now the argument between new and old, I've had my eye on an 07 Pete but I go back and forth about having payments versus fixing mine up. You don't see many 359's out there. I think the main reason I'd like to upgrade is the ride comfort, this air leaf will beat you up a bit. The 07 I'm looking at has the Pete flex air suspension.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:40 PM
GMAN's Avatar
Administrator
Site Admin
Board Icon
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 17,097
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

Lowrange, I replaced my steering gear box a couple of years ago. It started leaking and would have cost nearly as much to rebuild as it did to buy a new one, so I opted for the new gear box. Those are not cheap on an International. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was several hundred dollars.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:52 PM
RostyC's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,303
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMAN View Post
Lowrange, I replaced my steering gear box a couple of years ago. It started leaking and would have cost nearly as much to rebuild as it did to buy a new one, so I opted for the new gear box. Those are not cheap on an International. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was several hundred dollars.
Close to a thousand I've been told. I'm learning quick......nothing on this truck is cheap. I'm putting stop leak in mine till I can get it replaced. It's not a real bad leak though. Also putting stop leak in my radiator.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:52 PM
lowrange's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: continental 48
Posts: 587
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

Ok, good stuff. Will pass on a second go at the Vada, though.

Fitzgerald is the guy Kevin works with, it might be a good idea to give them a call.

The things I'd want refurbished are the things that can leave you on the side of the road. If the air conditioner went out (already replaced), I could man up to finish my load. The hoses, these rusty tubes... Front end parts should be inspected but I don't believe they will just fail on you in the middle of a load.

All the engine manufacturers have a range of packages designated for rebuilds, I wish I knew some place that has a standardized inspection/refurbishing program targeting the most important things.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-26-2009, 01:58 PM
lowrange's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: continental 48
Posts: 587
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMAN View Post
Lowrange, I replaced my steering gear box a couple of years ago. It started leaking and would have cost nearly as much to rebuild as it did to buy a new one, so I opted for the new gear box. Those are not cheap on an International. I don't remember the exact cost, but it was several hundred dollars.
Several hundred dollars!? Man, the control to my heating and airconditioning- a little plastic panel piece- that was $300! My steering shaft, the part alone was $800.

Anyway, as I said, I'd like to target the things that can cause you to be late on a delivery or leave you on the side of the road. The things that make noises or feel stiff or cause the truck to shake or give you any kind of a warning well before complete failure- I don't see a need to preemptively replace any of that.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-26-2009, 02:55 PM
GMAN's Avatar
Administrator
Site Admin
Board Icon
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 17,097
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

Personally, I would not start replacing expensive parts. I have had rears go out without any notice. Pulling the inspection plate and taking a look can often spot potential problems before they fail, but that is no guarantee. If you want to replace potential failures then I would suggest the heater and radiator hoses. Air hoses can become brittle with time, especially if they are plastic, but I would not start replacing them until they failed. I don't recall ever having an air hose to fail quickly other than on one occasion. I had one to break at a truck stop in California several years ago. It was one of the glad hand lines. It was made out of plastic. I kept noticing a drop in air pressure but could never find the leak. Finally, the part failed completely and broke. I replaced the line and all was well.

You can take your truck to any good mechanic for an inspection. I am not talking about a DOT inspection but one that will check everything to see if anything needs to be replaced. They will likely charge you by the hour to check things out. You could probably find an independent garage that would do it for much less than a dealer. These dealers charge an arm and leg to do anything. Of course, you could take it to a dealer and I am sure they will find plenty of things to replace.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-26-2009, 11:55 PM
Maniac's Avatar
Senior Board Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Northeast
Posts: 1,092
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Default

Don't fix it if it ain't broke.

Friend of mine recently spent $9000.00 at Peterbilt replacing both rears, reason: they had 1 million miles on them, that was his only reason.

When my front rear went out in Augusta Ga, with the towing and ALL the incedentals it cost me $2900.00, blew it on Sat morning and was rolling Tuesday at noon.

Save your money, don't start replacing stuff just because it has a million miles on it, lots of those components have the capability of much more than 1 million, I figure if they go a million, lets see how much more I can get.
Reply With Quote
Reply






Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT. The time now is 12:08 PM.


User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.