Opinions on a truck

[Malaki86]

My company is considering selling my truck, and I'm considering buying it. I just need your thoughts on the truck. Here are the specs:

2002 Volvo 770/780 (originally owned by USXpress)
876,000 miles
ECU shows an average of 6.5mpg over the life of the truck
450hp ISX - uses/loses no oil
10spd autoshift
3.42 rears
Body is about 95% condition

The transmission was rebuilt less than 3 months ago. Both rear ends were replaced about 5-6 months ago. To the best of my knowledge, and our shop, there has never been any major mechanical engine work done.

I've driven this truck myself for about 15 months. In that time, other than when the transmission went out (the hi/low range splitter ate itself), it's only had minor problems, such as water lines, maxi's, etc.

The ECU average mpg is pretty consistent with what I currently get out of it. We haul heavy (42k+ on average) into and out of central WV. When I take a load into/out of TX, I see an average of 10-11mpg @ 64mph (our governed speed).

I'm thinking that I can buy the truck in the range of $20-24,000. They'll put a new set of tires all around on it if I purchase as well (caps on the drives).

So, whaddya think?

[tweety bird]

Opinion on the truck differs from opinion on whether or not you should buy a truck. But if you're going to buy a truck, it doesn't sound like a bad deal.

You're always taking a chance, but it sounds like its got a good history- and 6.5 mpg is nothing to laugh at! We never got better than 5.2 in either of our two Volvos- 2000 with 46/500 Detroit and 2004 with a 565 Cummins.

Especially since you know the driver who was in it for the last 15 months. You're hedging your bets. Something could still go miserable wrong, but you know a lot more about this truck than you do about some other truck out there that you haven't been driving for 15 months.

[NotSteve]

If your in the market for a truck I don't see how you could go wrong buying one that you are personally familiar with.

[Doghouse]

Other than the caps it sounds good. Go the extra cost and have some good low rr tires and you mpg should come up also.

[JR OTR]

If you have 15 months in the truck you know everything there is to know about how it runs. Sound like it is in pretty good health.

Since you're buying you probably are wanting to keep it for more than 300,000 more miles so why not consider putting a set of Michelin super singles on? I run them on my rig and my adjusted fuel expense per mile is at 10.66 cents for the last quarter. (details) Testing has shown an increase of MPG by 9% or more using super singles, plus they reduce weight by about 200 pounds per axle compared to duals with steel rims.

Why 300,000 miles? That is about how far I got with the ones I had on my truck when I ran for CFI.

Good luck,

Jim

[Malaki86]

How much weight savings do you get by switching to singles? I'd like to get an apu if I buy the truck, but I also have to take into consideration the weight I'm already working with. Right now I can haul 45-45,500. Over that and I've got trouble. Usually with a full load, I run about 11,500-11,700 on the steers. Also, what kind of changeover cost would there be (as an estimate)?

Another issue with an apu on this truck would be where to put it. The truck has the full fairings, but they're not the easily removable ones like the 2004+ Volvo's. The fuel tanks are mounted mid to rear under the cab (the fuel port is at the back of the cab). So, I'd either have to have the passenger tank turned and moved forward to mount the apu at the rear, or would have to come up with some way to make one of the fairings easy to remove.

Right now everything is in the "wait and see" stage. The shop has mentioned that they're considering selling. I told them that if they do, I want to be notified first. So, just gotta see how things go.

Thanks for the opinions. I think that if I was to buy a truck, I wouldn't be going wrong with this one.

[Roadhog]

I think you need a min. of 30" free frame space for an APU. On the Pete 387 we used a 150gal. tank on drivers side, and a 100gal tank passenger side to make the space.



Schneider has mounted to Volvo 780's. See if you can eyeball one of their set ups.
http://bulktransporter.com/news/Schneider47/

basic install guide...
http://www.peakpowertools.com/v/vspf...ationGuide.pdf

[GMAN]

The advantage you have with this truck is that you have been driving it and know it's general condition. The down side is the high mileage. You are basically on borrowed time without having already had major engine work. On the other hand, there are more trucks around today that have crossed the million mile mark without having an in-frame. If you decide to buy the truck, I would start putting as much money aside as quickly as possible for the inevitable in-frame. A friend of mine recently had his N14 rebuilt and it cost him about $10,000. I would allow up to $15,000 to be safe. The cost of a rebuild will vary due to what is needed.

[Double L]

It seems like when you drive a company truck things are GREAT and no problems but when you buy it that is when all the mechanical problems start to happen. I can't control Murphy's law ya know!

[lowrange]

When I take a load into/out of TX, I see an average of 10-11mpg @ 64mph (our governed speed).

I'd say buy it. You could probably sell it for millions to R and D of any engine manufacturer.

BTW, that avatar kills!

[JR OTR]

How much weight savings do you get by switching to singles? I'd like to get an apu if I buy the truck, but I also have to take into consideration the weight I'm already working with. Right now I can haul 45-45,500. Over that and I've got trouble. Usually with a full load, I run about 11,500-11,700 on the steers. Also, what kind of changeover cost would there be (as an estimate)?

Another issue with an apu on this truck would be where to put it.

The way I figure it, I saved 200 pounds on each of my drive axles going to singles so that basically compensates for the 425 pounds of my TriPac. On my 2007 780 the TriPac sits just in front of my driver's-side 150-gal fuel tank. It is about 3/4ths unblocked once you take off the step fairing with the handles: the other 1/4 or so is blocked by the second fairing which has to come off if they have to pop the cover off of the APU.

Note also there is a federal reg in play that lets you go up to 80,400 lbs if you are APU equipped so long as the extra over 80,000 is on your drives. However, not all states recognize this so you could be rolling dice there.

As far as cost for the rims and wheels, it cost me about 4,000 but that also included new Michelin steers and those rims as well. You might want to ask your company if they have an account that you can use to get their discounts on any tire purchases.

My original math on the switch was using $100,000 a year in fuel (probably high, considering I'm pretty much a miser when it comes to fuel) and 4% better fuel economy (probably low). If they last two full years, they've paid for themselves and their rims twice over.

Good luck,

Jim

[allan5oh]

Malaki, before even considering buying the truck, get the following done:

1) full vehicle history report, carfax, or the like. May not show everything, but it's a start.

2) Pull an ECM report. Make sure the mileage matches, check for codes, etc..

3) Get an independent shop to check over the truck, especially large items such as:

- turbocharger(check in and out play)
- Air compressor
- AC compressor(check the charge as well, a low charge indicates a leak)
- CAC/radiator (pressurize CAC and check for psi loss)
- clutch/crossshaft (if possible)
- Brakes (get them to take one steer wheel off, and one drive axle off, and measure how much pads and drums are left, to give you an idea)
- Fifth wheel for any slack

Don't sweat the small stuff, that's just the part of owning a truck.

4) Get cummins to check the engine, dyno it(with blowby) and maybe do a compression check. Do an oil sample. Definitely do an idle injector test. Get their opinion, I know certain years of the ISX in the early 2000's were not good. Take your serial number in and talk to them(or call).

5) Get service records, your company should have them(required by law). Cummins and Volvo will have service records of stuff done under warranty.

I have a huge list of things you should do after you buy it as well(air dryer service, power steering fluid/filter, bypass oil filter, etc..)

Do the oil sample, ECM report first. If everything checks out, do all the other stuff as well.

[allan5oh]

Another thing:

Please consider the purchase of your truck(I'd prefer it if you bought the truck, not leased) and "leasing on" to the carrier as two totally seperate transactions. Put equal energy and research into both.

[Malaki86]

Thanks for that info. When/if I get closer, I'll take the truck in to have it thoroughly checked out at the local Volvo dealer. My company already does the oil analysis on all trucks. I'm sure they'll let me get a copy of the reports. Also, they're very thorough on the maintenance. The do an A service every 10k and a B every 30k.

There are 2 things about the truck that I'm sure need work:
1 - The tractor's ABS wiring harness needs replaced. They've already checked the sensor's out. This is typical on the Volvo's.

2 - The engine brake doesn't have as much hold-back power as it should. I've tried to get the shop to adjust it, but they never have. They took the truck out bobtail and flipped the switch on high and said the engine brake works fine. Ya - add about 60k more weight behind the truck and a 8% downgrade and see how good it is. Anyway, I'm sure it needs an overhead or at the very least a rack adjustment.

Off topic, but this should be an easy question:

When you lease onto a carrier (you own the truck), are you contracted to them for a specific time period or can you leave at will if need be?

[allan5oh]

There are 2 things about the truck that I'm sure need work:
1 - The tractor's ABS wiring harness needs replaced. They've already checked the sensor's out. This is typical on the Volvo's.

Same problem with mine, splice in new GOOD quality wiring from the ABS unit all the way to the connector on the axle. You'll know what I mean.

You can always test it by "swapping" the harness side to side at the rear. They actually give you enough slack to do this.

If the code stays the same, it's the wiring. If the code switches sides, it's the sensor.

[Fredog]

Thanks for that info. When/if I get closer, I'll take the truck in to have it thoroughly checked out at the local Volvo dealer. My company already does the oil analysis on all trucks. I'm sure they'll let me get a copy of the reports. Also, they're very thorough on the maintenance. The do an A service every 10k and a B every 30k.

There are 2 things about the truck that I'm sure need work:
1 - The tractor's ABS wiring harness needs replaced. They've already checked the sensor's out. This is typical on the Volvo's.

2 - The engine brake doesn't have as much hold-back power as it should. I've tried to get the shop to adjust it, but they never have. They took the truck out bobtail and flipped the switch on high and said the engine brake works fine. Ya - add about 60k more weight behind the truck and a 8% downgrade and see how good it is. Anyway, I'm sure it needs an overhead or at the very least a rack adjustment.

Off topic, but this should be an easy question:

When you lease onto a carrier (you own the truck), are you contracted to them for a specific time period or can you leave at will if need be?

different rules for different carriers. my contract says I must give 15 days notice or forfeit whatever pay I have coming..

[GMAN]

When you lease onto a carrier (you own the truck), are you contracted to them for a specific time period or can you leave at will if need be?

Most carriers have an "At will" contract. In other words, either of you can cancel the contract at any time and for any reason. It is always a good idea to read any contract thoroughly. As Fredog mentioned, some contracts may be worded differently.

[mikeymike]

Malaki...is the truck a 770 or 780....As far as tires I strongly recommend you not put retreads on it. I have a 2004 670 and I HAD RETREADS on the drives. One of them blew and took my last fairing that has the step rail for the cat walk with it. It also bent one side of the cat walk and tore off the black piece between the tires and the tank. Also if you are really considering buying the truck see what comparable sells go for on truckpaper.com. Then have them repair any and everything while it"s still a company truck. I am about to get a tripac apu installed on mine this week and it will be placed under the passenger side under the fairings in front of the fuel tank. I was told you need 27 inches of space by thermoking.

[Malaki86]

Malaki...is the truck a 770 or 780....As far as tires I strongly recommend you not put retreads on it. I have a 2004 670 and I HAD RETREADS on the drives. One of them blew and took my last fairing that has the step rail for the cat walk with it. It also bent one side of the cat walk and tore off the black piece between the tires and the tank. Also if you are really considering buying the truck see what comparable sells go for on truckpaper.com. Then have them repair any and everything while it"s still a company truck. I am about to get a tripac apu installed on mine this week and it will be placed under the passenger side under the fairings in front of the fuel tank. I was told you need 27 inches of space by thermoking.

Being an '02, I'm almost positive it's a 770. I think the 780 came out in '04. The same truck & specs on TruckPaper go anywhere from $24k to 60k. The only problem I see with installing an apu under the fairing on this truck is the fact that the fairing is bolted into place. The '04+ Volvo's have quick release fairings (2 large handles).

I did like the idea (somewhat) of downsizing one tank by 50 gallons, turning it so that the tank hole is accessible under the passenger door and mounting the apu at the far-rear under the cab. Right now, both tanks are filled at the far rear of the cab.

[RR9501]

My company is considering selling my truck, and I'm considering buying it. I just need your thoughts on the truck. Here are the specs:

2002 Volvo 770/780 (originally owned by USXpress)
876,000 miles
ECU shows an average of 6.5mpg over the life of the truck
450hp ISX - uses/loses no oil
10spd autoshift
3.42 rears
Body is about 95% condition

The transmission was rebuilt less than 3 months ago. Both rear ends were replaced about 5-6 months ago. To the best of my knowledge, and our shop, there has never been any major mechanical engine work done.

I've driven this truck myself for about 15 months. In that time, other than when the transmission went out (the hi/low range splitter ate itself), it's only had minor problems, such as water lines, maxi's, etc.

The ECU average mpg is pretty consistent with what I currently get out of it. We haul heavy (42k+ on average) into and out of central WV. When I take a load into/out of TX, I see an average of 10-11mpg @ 64mph (our governed speed).

I'm thinking that I can buy the truck in the range of $20-24,000. They'll put a new set of tires all around on it if I purchase as well (caps on the drives).

So, whaddya think?

here's my question, why is the company waiting untill now, 876,000 miles to upgrade there fleet?...most companies ive heard of change out at around 400,000