My greenhorn knuckle-bonehead maintenance questions

[Cam]

I have an '01 Century Class. These are my questions, I'll appreciate insight into any and all of these things:

Air filter- How often do you change yours and do you do anything like blowing it out with an air hose periodically? I once changed my air filter and it seemed my mpg jumped .5 miles. That's a whole lot of money. The new air filter pays for itself if it gives me a .5mpg boost over just 1700 miles. I don't ever want to lose mpg due to an air filter, and that air filter I spoke of wasn't that old.

In-cab air filter- OEM ICAF has big gaps in it. Aftermarket ICAFs are fine, no big openings. I have to wipe my dash frequently. Would you suggest I forget the OEMs and just stay with the aftermarket ones?

Jakes- Mine are weak, weak, weak. Is there a common problem with jakes? Do you think it's just something electrical that has to be turned up or something mechanical that needs to be repaired?

Shocks- How often do you change yours?

Coolant hoses- Do you regularly change yours? I was told mine are made of a material that will blow up like a balloon before they break. I was told that's when to change them. Right or wrong?

Sealed lubricating systems- My driveshafts have no zerts. I think I have a slack adjuster or two without them. Perhaps even a couple more things (I was serious about knuckle-bonehead). Think I can have zerts added to my driveshaft? Would you have zerts put in anywhere you can? Nothing I can do about my sealed front hubs is there?

Front slack adjuster- Watched a mechanic beat it to death. It had no zert and wouldn't open so he felt no remorse, told me himself I need to change it. The clips are obvious. How do you take the splined part off?

Coolant- How often do you change it?

[GMAN]

Cam, you should have a guage which tells you when your air filter needs to be changed. It should be somewhere on are around the filter casing. I prefer to take mine out and visually check it. If it is dirty I change it. If you are simply looking for an interval, you can change it about every other oil change. I used to change mine every time I changed my oil, but I don't think that is always necessary. It depends on how and where you run.

I think aftermarket filters work just fine. The only name brand filters I use are CAT. I think they are better made, but those are for engine filters.

If your Jakes are weak, you may want to run an overhead. It should cost somewhere between $200-400. Part of the overhead includes checking and adjusting the Jakes.

You can change your shocks about every 2 years. I would probably not do it more frequently than that.

I have known of some owners who replace their hoses every year. When they do this they also flush their cooling system.

[jorlee]

I have an '01 Century Class. These are my questions, I'll appreciate insight into any and all of these things:

Air filter- How often do you change yours and do you do anything like blowing it out with an air hose periodically? I once changed my air filter and it seemed my mpg jumped .5 miles. That's a whole lot of money. The new air filter pays for itself if it gives me a .5mpg boost over just 1700 miles. I don't ever want to lose mpg due to an air filter, and that air filter I spoke of wasn't that old.

Change when dirty, should be able to tell new from used. Do not under any circumstances blow out a air filter. They are a fill with dirt and replace item.

In-cab air filter- OEM ICAF has big gaps in it. Aftermarket ICAFs are fine, no big openings. I have to wipe my dash frequently. Would you suggest I forget the OEMs and just stay with the aftermarket ones?

Jakes- Mine are weak, weak, weak. Is there a common problem with jakes? Do you think it's just something electrical that has to be turned up or something mechanical that needs to be repaired?

Get the valves and jakes adjusted.

Shocks- How often do you change yours?

Coolant hoses- Do you regularly change yours? I was told mine are made of a material that will blow up like a balloon before they break. I was told that's when to change them. Right or wrong?

Sealed lubricating systems- My driveshafts have no zerts. I think I have a slack adjuster or two without them. Perhaps even a couple more things (I was serious about knuckle-bonehead). Think I can have zerts added to my driveshaft? Would you have zerts put in anywhere you can? Nothing I can do about my sealed front hubs is there?

Driveshaft should be good for it's life if it doesn't have a zerk, i think. Not sure if you could add zerks to u-joints that don't have since they may not have the grease channels.

Sealed front hubs. Are you sure? Most have a bath in oil which you can check by popping out the center cover.

Front slack adjuster- Watched a mechanic beat it to death. It had no zert and wouldn't open so he felt no remorse, told me himself I need to change it. The clips are obvious. How do you take the splined part off?

When the snap ring clip is taken off, plus washer and the push rod pin taken out it should slide right off the S-cam shaft, that is if I remember school correctly. Unless you want to take the Male splined S-cam out then the wheel and brake drum have to come off.

Coolant- How often do you change it?

I believe this is every 2 years, but you do need to keep a check on it. Using test strips to keep the additive level in check, along with the freeze protection. Can't remember exactly what 3 things the Fleetguard strips check for, but it is extremely important to make sure the coolant is up to snuff, and the additive package is where it's susposed to be.

[Cam]

GREAT!!! Here we go...

Cam, you should have a guage which tells you when your air filter needs to be changed. guage sucks It should be somewhere on are around the filter casing. I prefer to take mine out and visually check it. If it is dirty I change it. If you are simply looking for an interval, you can change it about every other oil change. Man, I've never heard anyone say that often. I can believe that, but that's not 'conventional wisdom' is it? I mean, that would be wise if a dirty filter will pull down your mpg significantly I used to change mine every time I changed my oil, but I don't think that is always necessary. It depends on how and where you run.

I think aftermarket filters work just fine. The only name brand filters I use are CAT. I think they are better made, but those are for engine filters. You've had Freightshakers, you know the in cab filters. They look like you can throw a rock through them. Is that why my dash gets dirty so quickly (I guess my whole truck is getting dirty, too)

If your Jakes are weak, you may want to run an overhead. It should cost somewhere between $200-400. Part of the overhead includes checking and adjusting the Jakes. Fantastic, what's a run an overhead?

You can change your shocks about every 2 years. I would probably not do it more frequently than that. Ok, I've heard annually, but maybe two is better. I do think I've got one bleeding after only a year though. I know I've got to do those.

I have known of some owners who replace their hoses every year. When they do this they also flush their cooling system.Hhhhmmm....some, but not you? Actually, when the cash is there I'm down with PM. Don't want to be on the side of the road throwing away buckets of cash. I could just have the hoses changed 'just because'

[Cam]

Thanks Jorlee,

I'm not sure I trust myself to visually inspect my air filter. Obviously when it's pretty gray it needs to be changed. But, is that when it begins to pull the mpg down? I just don't want to wait until I'm already losing mpg to change it. Air filters aren't cheap until you think about fuel, then they are quite cheap.

Think I just found out what a 'run an overhead' is.

Positive on the sealed hubs.

Slack adjuster slides right off? I was looking at it and wondering, thought maybe there was something screwed on there or something, maybe not.

Maybe I'll just go ahead and do the coolant and the hoses even if they don't need to be done yet. Then at least I'll know they are right.

[serbie]

Thanks Jorlee,

I'm not sure I trust myself to visually inspect my air filter. Obviously when it's pretty gray it needs to be changed. But, is that when it begins to pull the mpg down? I just don't want to wait until I'm already losing mpg to change it. Air filters aren't cheap until you think about fuel, then they are quite cheap.

Think I just found out what a 'run an overhead' is.

Positive on the sealed hubs.

Slack adjuster slides right off? I was looking at it and wondering, thought maybe there was something screwed on there or something, maybe not.

Maybe I'll just go ahead and do the coolant and the hoses even if they don't need to be done yet. Then at least I'll know they are right.

what is it..

[allan5oh]

I have an '01 Century Class. These are my questions, I'll appreciate insight into any and all of these things:

Air filter- How often do you change yours and do you do anything like blowing it out with an air hose periodically? I once changed my air filter and it seemed my mpg jumped .5 miles. That's a whole lot of money. The new air filter pays for itself if it gives me a .5mpg boost over just 1700 miles. I don't ever want to lose mpg due to an air filter, and that air filter I spoke of wasn't that old.

I'll assume engine air filter. I do mine once a year. Inadequate air filter changes can actually show up on used oil analysis as silicon. More frequent changes will allow you to be ahead of "dusting" (non-filtered air entering your engine). I highly recommend OEM for this exact reason.

In-cab air filter- OEM ICAF has big gaps in it. Aftermarket ICAFs are fine, no big openings. I have to wipe my dash frequently. Would you suggest I forget the OEMs and just stay with the aftermarket ones?

Which one? There's two, one for the bunk, and the regular cab air filter. Luberfiner has a good set of filters that are static-charged and apparently work much better. I change mine once a year as well.

Jakes- Mine are weak, weak, weak. Is there a common problem with jakes? Do you think it's just something electrical that has to be turned up or something mechanical that needs to be repaired?

First do a valve set, second your jakes may need rebuilding. It's not as major as it sounds, mostly o-rings and such. What engine is it? Some are much weaker then others.

Shocks- How often do you change yours?

Look at it this way, if they're "bleeding" (which is when most guys change them) you've gone about 2X as far as you should. Good shocks make for a smoother ride, and much better handling. Shoot for every 2-3 years. They're usually quite easy to change. Another thing, keep on top of your ride height.

Coolant hoses- Do you regularly change yours? I was told mine are made of a material that will blow up like a balloon before they break. I was told that's when to change them. Right or wrong?

I've changed all mine once in 4 years now. If your engine ever overheats, or you idle a lot, shoot for every 2-3 years.

Sealed lubricating systems- My driveshafts have no zerts. I think I have a slack adjuster or two without them. Perhaps even a couple more things (I was serious about knuckle-bonehead). Think I can have zerts added to my driveshaft? Would you have zerts put in anywhere you can? Nothing I can do about my sealed front hubs is there?

"sealed" driveshafts are the spawn of the devil. If you can add them, DO IT. There will usually be a "blank" you can pull out with a hex. Insert zerk into hole where there used to be a blank.

Front slack adjuster- Watched a mechanic beat it to death. It had no zert and wouldn't open so he felt no remorse, told me himself I need to change it. The clips are obvious. How do you take the splined part off?

Not sure what you're saying here. A slack adjuster needs to have zero tension on it first, then you remove the clevis pins. From there you take out the c-clip, and it slides right off.

Coolant- How often do you change it?

It totally depends on what type it is. Regular stuff once every 2 years. Some stuff can go 10+ years.

One thing though, do not let coolant go to long. You will start to get corrosion problems with your liners. After it eats through your liners, you'll need a rebuild.

[no_worries]

I've got a vacuum gauge on my air filter and changed it at about 200,000 miles. If you don't have one installed, I'd consider it. The thing about any filter, whether air or fluid, is that it's made to trap particulate up to a certain point. Filters actually become more efficient the more clogged they get until they reach the tipping point. This is why a gauge may be money well spent. It will save you from throwing away money needlessly. I think FilterMinder gauges run about $40.

I'd replace your cab filter with any brand you like. However, I'd consider adding a Cab Fresh filter. This is a filter that mounts over your HVAC intake. I've seen a noticeable difference in the amount of dust and outside odor in the cab since I started using these. As an added benefit, anything you can do to reduce debris in the intake will prolong the life of your HVAC system. About $35 at some truckstops and dealers.

Ditto on the overhead.

I know the OEM shock on my KW only come with a life-expectancy of about 60,000 miles. If I remember right, top model Monroes have a life-cycle of either 100,000 or 150,000 miles. One way to check is to feel your shocks when you stop. If you have a shock that's hot to the touch or warmer than the rest, it's done.

Coolant intervals depend on which kind you have. If you have ELC, they're usually made for 400-600,0000 miles provided you add the extender. If you just have regular coolant, everyone I know recommends once a year.

[GMAN]

Cam, if you run in areas where there is a lot of dust, such as El Paso, you may need to change your air filter more frequently than if you run in Middle America. The best thing to do is check it. I check belts and hoses regularly and change them as needed. I usually keep extra belts in the truck in case one breaks. With shocks, if you are short of cash, you can always change them in pairs. I suggest doing it on the same axles at the same time.

[Cam]

Ok, good stuff. Let's see...

>First, I do have a Filter Minder. Mine seemed to indicate 'bad' pretty quicky and at least a couple of mechanics told me you can't rely on them. I've been looking for a better way to make a decision. I'm reading an interval of about 2 months (every other oil change) to 18 months (200,000 miles). This one thing, I don't want to wait until I'm losing mpg to change it. Perhaps I'll just have to get a feel for it. If you 'believe in' Filter Minders let me know, I may need to try it again or even have mine replaced.

So it is 'zerk'. I thought it was 'zert' as in short for 'grease insert'. Gonna be a pro someday

>There's a c clip on the side of the slack adjuster. I'll just starting prying shizzle until I find it and try not to break anything.

>Ooooo, bad coolant can cause problems even though there is no overheating. I haven't changed the coolant since I bought the truck so I have no idea what kind it is or how long since it has been changed. Survey says....change it! And hoses while I'm at it.

>Well, since the truck didn't come with an owner's manual, I need to lift the bed and start looking for another filter. And yes, Luberfiner makes an aftermarket filter that's better than OEM. One post and I've heard enough to be sold on a cab fresh filter :wink:

>The jake problem may not be big $$$ I have an ISX. Engine is running like a top. This 'valve set' won't wreck a good thing, will it?

>Changed my front shocks last year but there is oil on one. I'm reading one to two years normally (except in this case, I just have to do it). I'll change them myself if I can muster the torque to get them off and to hold the new ones on properly. Hand tight going to do it?

>I like that 'spawn of the devil' I'm going to get all nasty dirty and crawl around under there looking for blanks.

I think it's good to kick this around, one guy does it one way, another does differently. I'm open for rebuttals and anything else you care to share.

[allan5oh]

Valve sets should be done once a year. Cheap maintenance. You can run into substantial problems if it's not done regularly. You mileage slowly goes downhill as well.

Ill add a few other things to look out for:

When you're under the truck, bang every brake chamber at the spring end. If it rattles, the spring is broken, and the chamber must be replaced. Change it with "life seal" chambers only! Cost about twice as much, but they're SEALED and the spring wont rust and break. Come with a huge warranty as well.

Change your power steering fluid/filter regularly and put a GOOD synthetic ATF in there. This is very cheap maintenance.

If you have a hydraulic clutch (probably) change the fluid every 1-2 years and put a good high quality brake fluid in there. How does the clutch pedal feel right now?

Change driveline fluids with synthetics only, there's no reason to cheap out on this.

Keep an eye on driveline leaks, any type of leak can be a huge problem. Stay on top of this. Stay on top of wheel seal leaks too.

Check your front hubs regularly. I'm going to assume that they're oil-filled with a plug on the end. Stick your CLEAN finger in there, and jam it down to the bottom, try to find any metal shavings. Pull your finger out and inspect, the oil should be fairly clean. If it's not, you may have problems.

Grease grease grease, now here is where we run into a potential problem. Has anyone ever told you that there are many types of grease that are incompatible with each other? I am the only one that greases my truck for this very reason.

I misled you, it's not a c-clip, its a snap ring. You need a special tool to take them off.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...=1179349568824

Like that, although I do not advise getting that exact one. Get a good one, you'll thank me later.

After the snap-ring comes off, the slack adjuster should slide right off provided it's disconnected from the clevis.

[Cam]

This is awesome. Are you a trained mechanic? I'll use this as a list this weekend. Never heard anything like this.

Valve sets should be done once a year. Cheap maintenance. You can run into substantial problems if it's not done regularly. You mileage slowly goes downhill as well. I guess a dealership would be best for this and the jakes?
Ill add a few other things to look out for:

When you're under the truck, bang every brake chamber at the spring end. If it rattles, the spring is broken, and the chamber must be replaced. Change it with "life seal" chambers only! Cost about twice as much, but they're SEALED and the spring wont rust and break. Come with a huge warranty as well.

Change your power steering fluid/filter regularly and put a GOOD synthetic ATF in there. This is very cheap maintenance.

If you have a hydraulic clutch (probably) change the fluid every 1-2 years and put a good high quality brake fluid in there. How does the clutch pedal feel right now? Dunno. Feels good, but I have autoshift, too.

Change driveline fluids with synthetics only, there's no reason to cheap out on this. Had synthetic 3 box done last year.

Keep an eye on driveline leaks, any type of leak can be a huge problem. Stay on top of this. Stay on top of wheel seal leaks too. Alright, just going to get dirty this weekend!

Check your front hubs regularly. I'm going to assume that they're oil-filled with a plug on the end. Stick your CLEAN finger in there, and jam it down to the bottom, try to find any metal shavings. Pull your finger out and inspect, the oil should be fairly clean. If it's not, you may have problems. Nah, I've got these sealed front hubs. All I've ever heard is just drive them until...what? They start squealing?

Grease grease grease, now here is where we run into a potential problem. Has anyone ever told you that there are many types of grease that are incompatible with each other? I am the only one that greases my truck for this very reason. Never heard about grease incompatibility. Maybe I just need to learn where all the zerks are, start carrying a grease gun and switch to the 'basic' oil change.

I misled you, it's not a c-clip, its a snap ring. You need a special tool to take them off.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/browse/pr...=1179349568824 link came up for Canadian Tire store asking for a Canadian zip code?
Like that, although I do not advise getting that exact one. Get a good one, you'll thank me later. Good one? You mean I could do this again in my lifetime?

After the snap-ring comes off, the slack adjuster should slide right off provided it's disconnected from the clevis.

Very good, thank you!

[Kranky]

After the snap-ring comes off, the slack adjuster should slide right off provided it's disconnected from the clevis.

The key word here is "should".

In my years of working on trucks I have dealt with slack adjusters that were so rusted on to the brake camshaft that I had to use a torch to cut them off.

However if the slack adjuster and camshaft bushings are kept properly greased, enough grease finds its way to the spline to prevent this from happening.

One other comment I would like to make:

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER blow out an air filter element!!!!!!

The dust cloud created by doing this will cause dust to settle on the "clean" side of the filter, where it will be immediately sucked into your engine after the filter is re installed.

Also, the high pressure blast of air can damage the paper filter media, allowing dirt to pass through and go straight to your engine.

I have been told that new air filter elements actually let more dirt through, until they become partially plugged.

Supposedly, a seasoned air filter element is most efficient at removing dust and dirt from your engines intake air supply.

Truck manufacturers usually say you should not disturb an air filter element until it is time for replacement.

As far as lubrication, my motto has always been "Grease Is Cheaper Than Parts, And It's A Lot Easier To Install.

While you're under there greasing, always look at things.

Stop trouble before it stops you.

[GMAN]

Cam, you can have the overhead or most any other engine work done at most certified truck dealerships or engine dealers. You can take a Cummins engine to a Cummins dealer, Detroit to a Detroit dealer. There are also some parts which are interchangeable, but may have different part numbers. I found a drag link for my Peterbilt at Freightliner. You just had to match the parts since the numbers were different. :?

[allan5oh]

http://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-2078900-...9366623&sr=1-3

there you go.

[allan5oh]

Another thing, slack adjusters are supposed to be on the s-cam shaft TIGHT!

That means you'll have to fight with the snap ring.

Loose slack adjusters will cause deflection. This will wear out your bushings.

[Cam]

Cam, you can have the overhead or most any other engine work done at most certified truck dealerships or engine dealers. You can take a Cummins engine to a Cummins dealer, Detroit to a Detroit dealer. There are also some parts which are interchangeable, but may have different part numbers. I found a drag link for my Peterbilt at Freightliner. You just had to match the parts since the numbers were different. :?

Is setting the valves and checking the jakes a finesse kind of thing better done at Cummins? I'm just really wary right now what I take where to be done. Obviously, you don't want to go to dealership for an oil change. Same time, you don't want TA working on your ECU (computer, whatever it's called) :wink: . One thing I try to pay attention to is going to the place that actually has the parts! If they don't, they've got to send out for them and mark them up and charge for picking them up and stick it in the bill without showing you why the price was so high- thus, my $700 fan clutch.

I had my starter motor replaced at this outdoor shanty shop in Houston. Guy cleaned my battery terminals immaculately. This really happened, the bill was so low I gave the guy more than he was asking for. Just good, decent people there. Spent $500 in labor at Freightliner getting my rear 4 brakes and hubs replaced as well as two slack adjusters. They wanted an hour and a half of labor to install a few zerks. Mechanic confided it would have take 20 minutes. I nixed the zerks.

So then, I came across this guy with a shop on the SC/GA border to do the front brakes and hubs. Labor charge........$80! So, the moral of the story is I'm really trying to figure out who to get to do what. Set the valves, fix the jakes- Cummins? Freightliners?

[Cam]

After the snap-ring comes off, the slack adjuster should slide right off provided it's disconnected from the clevis.

The key word here is "should".

In my years of working on trucks I have dealt with slack adjusters that were so rusted on to the brake camshaft that I had to use a torch to cut them off.

However if the slack adjuster and camshaft bushings are kept properly greased, enough grease finds its way to the spline to prevent this from happening.

One other comment I would like to make:

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER blow out an air filter element!!!!!!

The dust cloud created by doing this will cause dust to settle on the "clean" side of the filter, where it will be immediately sucked into your engine after the filter is re installed.

Also, the high pressure blast of air can damage the paper filter media, allowing dirt to pass through and go straight to your engine.

I have been told that new air filter elements actually let more dirt through, until they become partially plugged.

Supposedly, a seasoned air filter element is most efficient at removing dust and dirt from your engines intake air supply.

Truck manufacturers usually say you should not disturb an air filter element until it is time for replacement.

As far as lubrication, my motto has always been "Grease Is Cheaper Than Parts, And It's A Lot Easier To Install.

While you're under there greasing, always look at things.

Stop trouble before it stops you.

Thanks Splitshifter, appreciate all the knowledge I can get. What you're saying about the air filter having a peak efficiency when it's slightly used is consistent with what, I think No_worries said. So then, it's also good not to replace the air filter too soon for more than just cost reasons.

This guy who told me about blowing out the filter, I can just imagine what he was thinking. It seems logical, right? So, he's doing this and he doesn't realize the problem he could be creating, all the while thinking he's doing something good. If you hadn't spoken up, it wouldn't have been tomorrow but probably the next day I'd have been in the barn with the air compressor getting my truck fixed up. :?

[allan5oh]

I don't really know about the "air filters become more efficient" theory.

When I bought my truck, the air filter was obviously well used. Pulled it off, and the intake tract was dusted a bit.

Now I change it once a year, and the intake tract is immaculate every time.

[Cam]

I don't really know about the "air filters become more efficient" theory.

When I bought my truck, the air filter was obviously well used. Pulled it off, and the intake tract was dusted a bit.

Now I change it once a year, and the intake tract is immaculate every time.

That means it's filtering well, but I don't hear any of you guys talking about fuel economy. How about your own experience, ever changed your air filter and seen your mpg jump?

Also, I'll ask you what I asked Gman. Do you like Cummins or Freightshaker for the valves and jakes, or some other option?