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Thread: double clutching

  1. #1
    iwant2drive is offline Rookie
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    Default double clutching

    im looking for idea's on different ways 400 drop and a 400 rev on a down shift with operating range of low 1300 rpm range and max range of 1800 i need some tips or idea's that work best

  2. #2
    Kranky's Avatar
    Kranky is offline Senior Board Member
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    What you posted is pretty much self explanatory.

    The secret is to have the engine RPM equivalent to what it would be if you were already in the gear you're shifting into.

    Once you grasp that principle, you don't even need the clutch to make a smooth shift.
    If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.

  3. #3
    Brad M is offline Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by iwant2drive View Post
    im looking for idea's on different ways 400 drop and a 400 rev on a down shift with operating range of low 1300 rpm range and max range of 1800 i need some tips or idea's that work best
    Did you ever get accepted to a driving school. If so, they would teach you proper shifting techniques.

  4. #4
    Jackrabbit379's Avatar
    Jackrabbit379 is offline Board Icon
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    Default

    It's always funny, reading how guys' are trying to help on shifting. Yall are right, not that, but shifting is something to be learned when driving, but sooner or later, they get the hang of it. We all had to learn how.

  5. #5
    Larry Heyns is offline Member
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    Feather the throttle. Take the torque off the transmission either with or without the clutch and shift to neutral. As the tach seeks the next appropriate rpm, make your moves with the stick and clutch. Here is my point. Do not wait until the tack is correct for the next gear. Make your moves early so that you can slip it into gear before the tach goes past the mesh point. Let's say the tach is dropping for an upshift. As the tach drops the transmission is in neutral with the clutch engaged. Just before the tach reaches the desired rpm, make a simultaneous move with the stick and clutch. Don't hesitate, or you will have to re-accelerate.

  6. #6
    zipy46's Avatar
    zipy46 is offline Senior Board Member
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    .........Use the force

  7. #7
    Malaki86's Avatar
    Malaki86 is offline Senior Board Member
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    I thought double-clutching meant that you use the clutch to start & stop rolling and never in between.
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  8. #8
    BIG JEEP on 44's is offline Senior Board Member
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    You can't learn how to shift or back from reading books or internet ...even an instructor is pretty useless ,because you learn these things by feel ,which can only be done by driving .

  9. #9
    Malaki86's Avatar
    Malaki86 is offline Senior Board Member
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    When I was in school, I had a lot of trouble with learning how to double-clutch. I'd driven a standard shift car since I was 16 (16 years doing it), so that's what I was used to. That's when the instructor explained to me how to float the gears. After that, I gave up on the DC thing. Of course, now I'm in an auto and only use the clutch to start & stop anyway.
    Wanna play a couple online games that are absolutely free? These are the games I play on a very regular basis:
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  10. #10
    BIG JEEP on 44's is offline Senior Board Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaki86 View Post
    When I was in school, I had a lot of trouble with learning how to double-clutch. I'd driven a standard shift car since I was 16 (16 years doing it), so that's what I was used to. That's when the instructor explained to me how to float the gears. After that, I gave up on the DC thing. Of course, now I'm in an auto and only use the clutch to start & stop anyway.

    Newer autos don't even need to be clutched to start/stop...which is the only time I see a clear benefit to the auto .

  11. #11
    Malaki86's Avatar
    Malaki86 is offline Senior Board Member
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    To be perfectly honest, I don't like the clutchless auto's at all, for a few reasons:

    1 - When the truck is loaded, no problem. The problem comes when you're bobtail and trying to back under a trailer. To engage the clutch in a clutchless truck, you have to build your revs up (it's a centrifugal clutch). All at once it grabs and takes off like a rocket. I don't know how many times I thought I'd ripped off the trailer king pin or broke the truck's fifth wheel doing that.

    2 - If you get into a situation where the drive tires lose traction and start sliding, you're pretty much screwed if you can't push the clutch in to let them freewheel. In a full auto, all you can do is put it in neutral. Of course, then you have to come to a complete stop to get it to go back into gear. Not the best in the ice/snow.

    As far as any other time to see the benefits, unless traffic is at a dead stop, I can put my auto into 1st gear and creep along as low as 2mph if need be. Also, an auto will get you better fuel mileage for the simple reason that the computer will always shift correctly, not to mention the lower maintenance costs.
    Wanna play a couple online games that are absolutely free? These are the games I play on a very regular basis:
    Battle of the West & Mobs Law

  12. #12
    BIG JEEP on 44's is offline Senior Board Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaki86 View Post
    To be perfectly honest, I don't like the clutchless auto's at all, for a few reasons:

    1 - When the truck is loaded, no problem. The problem comes when you're bobtail and trying to back under a trailer. To engage the clutch in a clutchless truck, you have to build your revs up (it's a centrifugal clutch). All at once it grabs and takes off like a rocket. I don't know how many times I thought I'd ripped off the trailer king pin or broke the truck's fifth wheel doing that.

    2 - If you get into a situation where the drive tires lose traction and start sliding, you're pretty much screwed if you can't push the clutch in to let them freewheel. In a full auto, all you can do is put it in neutral. Of course, then you have to come to a complete stop to get it to go back into gear. Not the best in the ice/snow.

    As far as any other time to see the benefits, unless traffic is at a dead stop, I can put my auto into 1st gear and creep along as low as 2mph if need be. Also, an auto will get you better fuel mileage for the simple reason that the computer will always shift correctly, not to mention the lower maintenance costs.


    I just use that magical slot called...neutral...when rolling in slow traffic ...I don't see how a set up could be lower maintenance that has more parts to fail and wear out this would only apply to those who can't shift ...rookies...who may tear up a transission ,but I would think as long as the operator can shift decent that the basic manual cheaper and more reliable with less parts to wear out and fail .

  13. #13
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    Kranky is offline Senior Board Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Malaki86 View Post
    Also, an auto will get you better fuel mileage for the simple reason that the computer will always shift correctly, not to mention the lower maintenance costs.
    I'm quite capable of shifting correctly manually, and as far as lower maintenance costs, well, I've never torn up a transmission or wrecked a clutch, so where would the savings come from????
    If you can't shift it smoothly, you shouldn't be driving it.

  14. #14
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    belpre122 is offline Local Advocate Senior Board Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kranky View Post
    I'm quite capable of shifting correctly manually, and as far as lower maintenance costs, well, I've never torn up a transmission or wrecked a clutch, so where would the savings come from????
    Better fuel mileage and lower maintenance costs are what they report Kranky. (as Malaki86 has already stated)

    Apparently by constant and consistent analysis of RPM/speed ratios, torque etc, and the ability to apply corrections and optimization adjustments immediately and exactly, as opposed to 'when it feels right' is more efficient and is easier on the power train.......just for starters. No more over-revving, and gear selection is made to maximize efficiency rather than a 'sweet spot' that is arbitrary to each individual driver. I drove one for about 2 months and was impressed. I talked with an Allison engineer from the Indianapolis plant one day and my head was spinning as he (tried) to explain the auto-shift to me. One thing for sure, the auto-shift is much, much more than just an automatic transmission.

    Seems to work though. Especially in the urban environment. Most of the large fuel hauler companies around here now purchase only automatics. Only time will tell Kranky. Hell, at this rate, they won't need us to hold the wheel much longer either.
    Last edited by belpre122; 11-05-2008 at 11:12 PM.
    "Just another OTR coolie carrier. They suck. They ALL suck. Run away from coolie OTR trucking" The Great ColdFrostyMug

  15. #15
    Walking Eagle's Avatar
    Walking Eagle is offline Senior Board Member
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    Default

    Just knock it outa gear then push, hard, on the shifter till goes in the next one. Might rev. the engine up and down hard (use the jake) as that will help it go in
    The Alaska building method. Measure with a micrometer. Level with a laser. Cut with an axe.

  16. #16
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    Default

    u will quicky learn how ugly it sounds grinding that shifter around looking for the hole. u might get lucky and get a truck with a good trans that wasnt beatin to **** from the guy before u. my truck was definalty beat up. everytime u hit the rev range it made an awful grinding bang noise. got that fixed now just 9th and tenth are a little dry. some days it seems to shift smooth all day, others it just feels loose and sloppy
    LOW CLEARANCE BRIDGE MEANS NOTHIN TO A FLATBED

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