Flatbed load secure?

[ChikinTrucka]

I'm new at flatbeddin' and beginning to think it was a mistake. Of my many concerns, load security seems to be the biggest. Only because I don't like the idea of the load hitting me from behind and pushing me through the engine.

I don't think my truck has enough straps, just 12. I have seen 24 on a Hart truck. My typical load is lumber.
4 tiers high, about 13 feet overall, and 3 or 4 rows from front to back.
The way I read the rules is,
One strap every 5 feet, and straps over the middle of the load if it's higher than 6 feet.

Most of my loads would require 4 straps per 'stack' for the first two tiers and then 4 more over all 4.
I think that may be more than enough, but I only have 12 straps and don't think I can make it legal.

On a load of shingles, I have 14 pairs of pallets front to back.
Each pair weighs over 6400 pounds. My straps are rated at 5600 pounds, but I only have enough for one strap per pair plus a couple for each end.
Am I too concerned about this small discrepancy? It seems like everyone else only puts one strap over shingles. I've even seen loads going down the road with NO straps over the middle rows!

And one more. How do you keep steel from moving? It seems like there is no way to get a chain around some loads that would keep it from moving in an emergency situation. Even if someone cuts me off and I have to stab the brakes pretty good, the load always moves a little.

[terrylamar]

I'm new at flatbeddin' and beginning to think it was a mistake. Of my many concerns, load security seems to be the biggest. Only because I don't like the idea of the load hitting me from behind and pushing me through the engine.

Securement that specifically prevents forward movement are X-strap, X-chain, bulkhead and choke strap.

I don't think my truck has enough straps, just 12.

How many winches do you have? You may have to take it upon yourself to request more, accumulate more or even buy more.

I have seen 24 on a Hart truck. My typical load is lumber.
4 tiers high, about 13 feet overall, and 3 or 4 rows from front to back.
The way I read the rules is,
One strap every 5 feet, and straps over the middle of the load if it's higher than 6 feet.

Most of my loads would require 4 straps per 'stack' for the first two tiers and then 4 more over all 4.
I think that may be more than enough, but I only have 12 straps and don't think I can make it legal.

Typically, I would secure the front row and the last row the best. The center rows are contained by the front and the back, especially forward and rearward movement and somewhat side to side movement. If it is flat lumber it tends not to move so much. Use of lumber tarps will add a little securement. If it is short boards that tend to walk on you, tarping is mandatory.

On a load of shingles, I have 14 pairs of pallets front to back.
Each pair weighs over 6400 pounds. My straps are rated at 5600 pounds, but I only have enough for one strap per pair plus a couple for each end.
Am I too concerned about this small discrepancy? It seems like everyone else only puts one strap over shingles. I've even seen loads going down the road with NO straps over the middle rows!

Something is wrong as you are describing it, or as I am understanding it. You have described 89,600 lbs. of shingle. You are overweight. Do you mean 14 individual pallets or 7 pair? That would be 44,800 lbs. a more typical load. Two straps in the front and rear and one each on the middle rows. X-strap the front to stop forward movement.

And one more. How do you keep steel from moving? It seems like there is no way to get a chain around some loads that would keep it from moving in an emergency situation. Even if someone cuts me off and I have to stab the brakes pretty good, the load always moves a little.

You would have to describe the steel load.

Sheet steel, X-chain the front, maybe the rear. Chain a minimum of the front, middle and rear. Use 4" straps. Chains, usually allow some movement, the straps do not.

Angle iron, pipe, rod, etc. you need to build a bulkhead. Then chain and strap.

Greasy pipe or rod, build a bulkhead and use choke (cinch) straps.

Secure your load so it doesn't have a chance to start moving. Once it starts moving it is harder to stop it.

You have to drive your load. If it is one that is prone to movement, drive slower, brake well in advance of your stop, take turns and corners very slowly and carefully. You have to drive very defensively.

[ChikinTrucka]

OK, thanks for the help.
Now I am really going to show my ignorance.
*What is X-chain?
*What do you mean: "build a bulkhead"? I assume you mean something other than the headache rack on the back of the sleeper.
Is this something I would do every time I need it, or something that is part of the trailer?
*What are choke (cinch) straps?
I really hate feeling this stupid. I have hauled so much for so many years, it seems like I would already know this, but what the hey, can't know it all..

[ChikinTrucka]

Example steel load: Those things that look like a big accordion to make a temporary dam or retaining wall. They come apart in approximately 2 foot wide by 35 feet long. 19 of them in a stack is about 5 feet high. I put a chain across the front and back at an angle so it crossed the end of the top few. That helped but I still had trouble keeping the middle ones from moving forward when I braked.

[terrylamar]

OK, thanks for the help.

Sure, that is what this forum is all about. There will be others along shortly. They may improve upon my suggestions and give different ones of their own.

Now I am really going to show my ignorance.
*What is X-chain?

Does this mean you know what a X-strap is? A X-chain is the same, just a chain. In case you don't, If you are looking at the load the strap or chain forms a X across the front of the load. With the strap, the hook end is close to the front of the load and the winch end (usually a 2" strap and winch are used) is secured so it makes a 45 degree angle. It is the same with a chain, the binder end makes the 45 degree angle.

*What do you mean: "build a bulkhead"? I assume you mean something other than the headache rack on the back of the sleeper.
Is this something I would do every time I need it, or something that is part of the trailer?

You place four 4 x4's stacked then secured with a chain. A bulkhead is a wall. It is best that you build it before the load is placed upon the trailer, and have the loaders place the load so it is touching the bulkhead. Remember it is easier to keep a load from moving than it is to stop it once it starts moving. Sometimes, you have to build it after the load is on the trailer. Build it as close to the load as possible. A bulkhead higher than four high will not be as stable. You will build it everytime you need it.

*What are choke (cinch) straps?

A choke strap, as it's name implies, tightens around the load you are securing. It is looped around the load forming a circle. It is tightened down and if the load shifts forward it tightens itself further. It is usually used on round stock, especially, greasy pipe or round bars.

I really hate feeling this stupid. I have hauled so much for so many years, it seems like I would already know this, but what the hey, can't know it all..

Nobody know it all. It sounds like you learned a lot on your own without proper training. I had the benifit of going through TMC's securement class. I don't have a lot of experience, but I was trained properly. I am not saying I know it all, far from it, I continue to learn. One way, is to talk to other flatbedders. Ask for there help, opinion and just watch them. I do it all the time.

[ChikinTrucka]

Here's a picture of a load that I don't think has enough straps.
http://www.classadrivers.com/phpBB2/...php?pic_id=127

[terrylamar]

Example steel load: Those things that look like a big accordion to make a temporary dam or retaining wall. They come apart in approximately 2 foot wide by 35 feet long. 19 of them in a stack is about 5 feet high. I put a chain across the front and back at an angle so it crossed the end of the top few. That helped but I still had trouble keeping the middle ones from moving forward when I braked.

I have never hauled this type of load. What I would do, is stop at Home Depot or other such store, or even as the shipper if they have a piece of sheet lumber, plywood or whatever that you can place on the front of the load they X-chain it. If the rear, middle sections move, place one at the rear and X-chain it too. Depending on the weight, once the plywood covers the front, you may be able to X-strap it. Whichever makes it more secure.

[ChikinTrucka]

How about this one? This picture shows one of three stacks/side, also known as a six pack. All of them moved about 6 inches ahead.

http://www.classadrivers.com/phpBB2/...php?pic_id=128

Notice how much it moved when some a-hole cut in front of me than slammed on the brakes.

[terrylamar]

How about this one? This picture shows one of three stacks/side, also known as a six pack. All of them moved about 6 inches ahead.

http://www.classadrivers.com/phpBB2/...php?pic_id=128

Notice how much it moved when some a-hole cut in front of me than slammed on the brakes.

X-straps would have prevent forward movement.

[ChikinTrucka]

*What is X-chain?*What are choke (cinch) straps?

Is this something I need to buy or do you mean to make an X with my straps or chain? Because all I have is 12- 4" straps, 8 chains with binders and a couple 2" ratchets straps.

*What do you mean: "build a bulkhead"?

When you say 4X4, do you mean to stack up the 'dunage' I use under the lumber and secure it? Or do I need to get some other 4x4 wood?

[terrylamar]

*What is X-chain?*What are choke (cinch) straps?

Is this something I need to buy or do you mean to make an X with my straps or chain? Because all I have is 12- 4" straps, 8 chains with binders and a couple 2" ratchets straps.

Yes. Make it with your existing chains or straps.

TMC drivers carry (12) 4" straps, (4) 2' straps with ratchets and (10) chains and binders. This is usually enough, but not always. If you have to, buy more. You can never have enough 2" straps and ratchets. You should have enough 4" straps for the winches you have on your trailer. You may even buy some of the type with the ratchets. They come in handy when you have to secure over the wheels or the extreme ends of the trailer.

*What do you mean: "build a bulkhead"?

When you say 4X4, do you mean to stack up the 'dunage' I use under the lumber and secure it? Or do I need to get some other 4x4 wood?[/quote]

The dunage you have now. You should have about 10 pieces.

Your first picture looked perfect to me. The second one looks like you didn't crank the straps down enough. You could also belly strap the first layer with one strap in the middle then 2 straps over the top layer.

I have 24 straps on my flatbed. I use the left over ones to strap down the tarp when the load is an odd shape. I don't like my tarp flapping around.

I also think it's good that your always concerned about your load being secured.

I'm surprised GMAN hasn't chimed in here yet???

[draginzwagon]

Hey That Hancook Lumber load looks familier , is that in Pittsfield, Maine?

stevebooth, mentioned belly straps, he is right on the money. When you load lumber expecially Hancock lumber, or simular loads. You have to slow down the loaders. they are all in a hurry, and if you do not tell them how you want it loaded, they will just do it the way they want. first thing before they start. Have them show you the product going on the trailer. weight, brd feet, dimensions Ect, ect... tell them you are going to belly strap the load, don,t ask! tell them " I am going to belly strap this load, can you please load a 4' tier" then when they build the 4' tier throw 1 strap across the middle of that tier. you will have typically 3 tiers. with 12 straps you will still have 3 to go over the top. Also when loading Lumber/ simular loads, you as the driver are the one placing dunage, Place your dunage where you plan to strap, this will give you a positive contact point from the top of the load to the floor of the trailer. this is extremely important with Lumber like pine coming out of Hancock. when you tighten your straps you are able to tighten more, than if the straps are not over dunage. Typically you will have 3 4' tiers (stacks) 1 belly strap in middle,
3 pieces of Dunage 1 on each end and 1 in the middle ( for each stack) load rest of trailer place 3 straps over dunage per stack, tighten straps as much as possible. Tarp and go. The belly straps are going to give you more side to side securement , placing straps over dunage will give you front to back securement. Happy flatbedding! :moose: " Swamp Donkey Crossing"

[GMAN]

When you haul flat sheet steel or beams you can use one or two chains across the front of the steel to help prevent it from moving forward. If you have pallets one strap is usually sufficient for each set except for the front and rear. Some heavier pallets could require 2 straps. On those you can either x them or put a chain across the front and rear set of pallets to prevent movement. A wood and steel trailer will usually have less pallet movement than a combo or aluminum deck. You can get some pallet movement on those trailers. Other types of freight can also move somewhat with an aluminum deck. Using rubber matting underneath, at least the front pallets, will help prevent movement. You can also put rubber matting underneath other types of freight to prevent movement.

When hauling steel coils, edge protectors can help get a bigger bite on the coil, even if the shipper doesn't require it. Most will want you to use edge protectors to prevent damage to the coils. Unless the coils are on pallets, then they will usually need to be set in a coil rack. Using a couple of strips of rubber matting will help reduce or stop the coil from moving around when it is properly chained. Aluminum coils will normally need straps. Most aluminum coils that I have hauled are on pallets and eye to the sky since they are so easily damaged. I will usually x-strap each coil. You may also want to put a chain across the front and rear pallet, but not the coil itself, as it could be damaged.

When you use a chain to prevent forward movement be sure to secure the chain behind the pallet or steel that you want to secure. And if you are securing a coil that is on a pallet, be sure to use rubber mats between the coil and chain if it touches. Some put a chain across the front of the coil, others put it across the pallet itself. If the coil is properly secured a chain across the pallet is usually sufficient to prevent any forward movement. Carrier's have different policies concerning this type of securement.

[steelhauler2007]

Just want to know who you are driving for? They should have covered all of this with you.Ask your safety dept. the way they want it secured.

[tbogle05]

I would have to agree with everything Ive read on here tonight.... and what company would put a driver out that wasnt shown how to chain a load their way..... Most companes put you through at least a half a day of securement training. If your unsure how to secure something... ask another driver, most flatbedders are eager to share their little tricks and their way of doing things... of course then you do have the pr*ks.

[ChikinTrucka]

Your first picture looked perfect to me. The second one looks like you didn't crank the straps down enough. You could also belly strap the first layer with one strap in the middle then 2 straps over the top layer.

I have 24 straps on my flatbed. I use the left over ones to strap down the tarp when the load is an odd shape. I don't like my tarp flapping around.

I also think it's good that your always concerned about your load being secured.

I'm surprised GMAN hasn't chimed in here yet???

Thanks. I have one of those loonngg bars and I jump on it. I have actually broken a strap just tightening it down, (Of course, it wasn't very new to begin with).
A belly strap is a good idea for the OSB, thanks. We used to call that stuff 'greased lightning' at Home Depot because the yahoo's there were always turning corners with the forklifts and spreading it out on the floor like playing cards.

[ChikinTrucka]

Just want to know who you are driving for? They should have covered all of this with you.Ask your safety dept. the way they want it secured.

I can see from some of the feedback that I'm getting here, that proper training isn't a priority. Co. is too small for a safety Dept. I'm pretty smart, and don't mind learning what I don't know. Common sense seems to be the biggest part of the job. The area where I have the most problems is with not having the right stuff. Like I keep coming up short of straps (Last week I had 2 broken straps from the last guy who used the trailer), could use more chains and I don't have friction mattes (other than the ones I saved from hauling paper in a dry van) but none from the company. It's a low budget small company and I don't think they're too eager to fork over extra stuff they don't think I really need or would only use once. I really like the job and the people are great, so I'm being caution not to step on toes, point fingers or name the company, but I'm sure at least one of you know who it is, it's really not that hard to figure out.
Thanks for all the help, I'm going to talk to my boss about getting more straps and a removable headboard for steel. The steel is my biggest concern because I feel it is the most deadly. Lumber can fall off and be deadly, or just messy. But steel seems like a real killer for me and any around me if something goes wrong.
Chikin Trucka

[ChikinTrucka]

[b][i]Hey That Hancook Lumber load looks familier , is that in Pittsfield, Maine?

Good call, but I think it was Bethel. I haul from many different mills.
You're right about the loaders. I'm learning to be more assertive, as I've learned, they'll just throw it on if I don't tell them what to do. I guess they figure if it fits on the trailer, all is good. They're mostly great guys and don't give me a hard time, but like you said, they are sometimes in too much of a hurry. (But it still takes me half a day or more to get loaded)
The biggest problem with the lumber loads is that I often don't load them, and some of the guys who get the loads don't know and/or care how to do it right. My only choice is to remove the tarps and re-strap it, but I can't get belly straps on a loaded trailer or move the load around. I've even had some overweight on the tandems, because they loaded heavy on the rear, and then I'm stuck with it.
The alternative is to get my own loads, but that usually takes all day and then I'm not making the big bucks driving.
Chickin Trucka

[ChikinTrucka]

I would have to agree with everything Ive read on here tonight.... and what company would put a driver out that wasnt shown how to chain a load their way..... Most companes put you through at least a half a day of securement training. If your unsure how to secure something... ask another driver, most flatbedders are eager to share their little tricks and their way of doing things... of course then you do have the pr*ks.

Yeah, 10-4, I have even helped some drivers greener than me, if you can believe that! Some young driver was putting his straps outside of the rub rails and was literally standing on his bar jumping up and down. I told him if the strap breaks, he's gonna get hurt, and to put the straps inboard. He was very appreciative and drove off with no air in the rear axle. I followed him for a while but his CB wasn't on. My training was just two days of loading lumber, never talked about steel at all. I thought they figured I was above average and could figure it out on my own. Good for my ego. But I can see that training would have saved me some aggravation.