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View Full Version : N14 1.1 million miles


xzostd1
03-15-2009, 01:36 PM
My million mile 2001 Volvo with a N14 Cummins now has 1.1 million miles. The top end and electronic injectors are original. Should I be doing any preventative repairs to the top end?? I was thinking about replacing the rear two injectors (hard to access ) and carry them as spares as I believe I could replace the front four on the road if needed. Do the elecronic injectors fail destructively( fall into the cylinder?!)
Do rocker arms fail...or Valve springs, valves etc.
The truck is running good.. 5.5 to 8 miles per gallon
I have no problem doing $1000.00 preventative repairs! $1000.00 at home equals $3000.00 on the road! (or more)
Semi-educated guesses accepted!
If I did it correctly I also have attached a picture of my Genset install.
Bill Menominee, Mi

moondog89
03-15-2009, 05:10 PM
FYI my N14 has 1043534.Have done the top end and that's it.

boneebone
03-16-2009, 12:52 AM
Did you ever have your rod and main bearings done? If not you should do those. Also have you ever replaced your oil pressure sensor? If not ,you should either replace it or get a spare because when that fails, your ECM will not let the truck run for more than a minute and you will be stranded.

Kranky
03-16-2009, 01:15 AM
Head Gaskets.

.

xzostd1
03-16-2009, 01:56 AM
In frame rebuild was done at 900K after the turbo failed. The heads were reused as is.
Bill

bob h
03-17-2009, 12:52 AM
In frame rebuild was done at 900K after the turbo failed. The heads were reused as is.
Bill

The cylinder head castings and valvetrain are usually trouble-free. The copper injector cups and head gaskets are more common failures.

Do you have a way to diagnose a failed injector?

If you DO decide to pull an injector on the side of the road, make sure you check for coolant leaking from injector cup; it can hydrolock your engine if you don't block the leak quickly. The leak could be the original cause of a misfire or rough idle.

Personally, I "might" consider carrying 1 injector if my N14 had a history of using them. IF your injectors are worn out, then replace them all... or, a couple at a time.

N14 injectors usually fail due to a seized plunger; no progressive damage.

xzostd1
03-17-2009, 12:13 PM
Bob H can you expound on the copper injector cup/ head gasket issues.
Can I replace the cups or is that a machine shop operation? Are the head gasket failures age related?
My intent was to do the rear 2 injectors at home. They are tucked under the dashboard and require removal of the seats floor mat, etc. to get the doghouse off, the front 2heads are wide open. The injectors are $500-00-700.00 each depending on vendor so the idea of replacing two and carrying 1 of the old ones as a spare makes sense...especially if the don't fail explosively! Should I use a Cummins injector or a private rebuilder.
Thanks Again for the excellent input?
Bill
Landstar Stepdecker

bob h
03-17-2009, 05:34 PM
Bob H can you expound on the copper injector cup/ head gasket issues.
Can I replace the cups or is that a machine shop operation? Are the head gasket failures age related?
My intent was to do the rear 2 injectors at home. They are tucked under the dashboard and require removal of the seats floor mat, etc. to get the doghouse off, the front 2heads are wide open. The injectors are $500-00-700.00 each depending on vendor so the idea of replacing two and carrying 1 of the old ones as a spare makes sense...especially if the don't fail explosively! Should I use a Cummins injector or a private rebuilder.
Thanks Again for the excellent input?
Bill
Landstar Stepdecker


The injector cups will leak coolant into the injector bore, the coolant may or may not pass the tip seal into the combustion chamber. When you pull the injector out of a leaking cup, the coolant runs down onto the piston. Machine shop, but make sure they know what they're doing; change them if required, not for pm... same as head gaskets... only if they fail.

If you're familiar with celect injectors, you don't have to pull the doghouse. I've always removed the 2 (or 3?) bolts from the top of doghouse (from outside cab), then pushed the doghouse inward and upward as far as possible, and then propped it up there. You won't be able to remove the pushrods, but it should give you enough room to pull the v cover, engine brake, rocker shaft and injectors... pressure wash the doghouse before beginning.

OEM or aftermarket injectors? I guess this is a cost weighing issue.