Losing power from my inverter.

[WarHorse]

My old truck could power my computer through a 300w inverter. But my new truck (2YO International) runs out of ass and the computer switches back and forth between battery and truck power. I have to shut down because the battery is original, 4 1/2 years old and doesn't last long.

Why is the newer truck not providing enough power for the computer? Is there any way around this? Hooking directly to the battery, maybe?

Help!

[Drew10]

Its probably the socket you have the inverter plugged into thats having the problem, it may not be getting a full 12v to the socket. Try another socket in the truck thats on a different circuit than the one you are having problems with. You can also get an accessory plug at the truckstop that has the alligator clips on one end and socket on the other. Clip the positive to one of you circuit breakers or fuse and the negative to a suitable ground. You inverter is low powered enough that it doesnt need a direct connection to the battery.

[WarHorse]

Its probably the socket you have the inverter plugged into thats having the problem, it may not be getting a full 12v to the socket. Try another socket in the truck thats on a different circuit than the one you are having problems with. You can also get an accessory plug at the truckstop that has the alligator clips on one end and socket on the other. Clip the positive to one of you circuit breakers or fuse and the negative to a suitable ground. You inverter is low powered enough that it doesnt need a direct connection to the battery.

I've tried every socket, which is why I think there's something wrong with the truck.

I'll look into the adapter, that is a cheap route and maybe will work better than screwing with the battery.

Thanks, Drew.

[WarHorse]

Its probably the socket you have the inverter plugged into thats having the problem, it may not be getting a full 12v to the socket. Try another socket in the truck thats on a different circuit than the one you are having problems with. You can also get an accessory plug at the truckstop that has the alligator clips on one end and socket on the other. Clip the positive to one of you circuit breakers or fuse and the negative to a suitable ground. You inverter is low powered enough that it doesnt need a direct connection to the battery.

I've tried every socket, which is why I think there's something wrong with the truck.

I'll look into the adapter, that is a cheap route and maybe will work better than screwing with the battery.

Thanks, Drew.

[Malaki86]

It's also possible that one of the trucks batteries are weak. It's not dead, just weak enough to drop the actual voltage causing the inverter to shut down.

[Uturn2001]

Could also be a problem with the plug on the inverter, or some other problem with the inverter.

[Drew10]

Assuming the inverter is OK....Are the symptoms the same whether you are Idling the truck or not. If it does not have a problem while idling then you may have a bad battery.

[headborg]

you're going to blow the LCD screen inverter out of your laptop- if you continue to have that kind of power surge-- alternating back and forth between battery & adapter-- due to high amp demand/ lack of current supplyed to your inverter---

first, go into the wall compartment behind the outlet plug-- and check the fuse( there's always an inline fuse to your cig plug-- this newer truck probably only has a 10amp blade fuse--- change that out to a 20-30amp blade fuse-- then try your inverter again.

if that don't work- go to the cables and run direct to battery or fuse box like this:





the power outlet plugs in these trucks are only 18gauge wire-- you're not going to get much more than 12x10= 120watts or if you change to a 20amp fuse- get 240watts TO your inverter---- you might wire up your own outlet socket to the batteries or fuse block-- and be sure to use larger
guage cables to your cig outlet--- like 10guage or 12guage wire, this will allow a better current flow to your inverter-- thus more POWER aval-- and your inverter won't set there and starve for power.

[Windwalker]

Headborg... While you're right, you're also wrong.

His computer keeps switching between battery and truck power. He didn't say what kind of truck it is. He didn't say that he inverter is turning on and off (which it may be doing). The 120 watts to his computer should be quite enough. I had a problem with my 1000 watt and bought two little 150s to run the computer and printer with. Then, I found that I could run both the computer and printer from one 150 watt inverter. The other is still brand new in the package, never opened. But, I did have a problem with the outlet in that truck as well. The inverter "ON" light would go on and off. I found that by putting an old wooden pencil in a drill, I could use the eraser to polish up the contact at the bottom of the outlet. No more problems.

If all he's powering is the computer, and nothing else, the 10 amp fuse should do fine. However, in my truck, the fuse is 15 amp (and that is what it calls for), and that means I can draw 205 watts from the circuit. (13.7 volts X 15 amps = 205.5 watts) I also know that the printer uses more power than the computer. The power supply for my computer is only rated 2.2 amps at 12 volts. (26.4 watts) The amount of current is determined by the demand, not the supply. So, you could have a 5000 watt inverter, but for that application, it will still only supply 26.4 watts.

It sounds like he has a connection problem, either like I did because of oxidation inside the outlet, or a bad connection under the dash. The first truck this company gave me, someone spilled soda on the dash and it rand into the outlet. Really gums up the works. Have to admit that the dried soda did help to hold down the rattles and squeaks. But, you had to have an indicator light to know if you had power or not.

I've also had to change the outlet in this truck because the phone charger was being very temperamental. I found that the center (+) contact would not make a good connection, but the new outlet works fine.

So, if he needs 240 watts of power to keep that computer going, he's got a mighty, big, fancy computer with ALL the bells and whistles. But, if he's just got an ordinary computer, that current, and the current that the inverter both draw out of the circuit should be below 50 watts and the circuit and fuse he has should be MORE than enough.

[headborg]

Headborg... While you're right, you're also wrong.

His computer keeps switching between battery and truck power. He didn't say what kind of truck it is. He didn't say that he inverter is turning on and off (which it may be doing). The 120 watts to his computer should be quite enough. I had a problem with my 1000 watt and bought two little 150s to run the computer and printer with. Then, I found that I could run both the computer and printer from one 150 watt inverter. The other is still brand new in the package, never opened. But, I did have a problem with the outlet in that truck as well. The inverter "ON" light would go on and off. I found that by putting an old wooden pencil in a drill, I could use the eraser to polish up the contact at the bottom of the outlet. No more problems.

If all he's powering is the computer, and nothing else, the 10 amp fuse should do fine. However, in my truck, the fuse is 15 amp (and that is what it calls for), and that means I can draw 205 watts from the circuit. (13.7 volts X 15 amps = 205.5 watts) I also know that the printer uses more power than the computer. The power supply for my computer is only rated 2.2 amps at 12 volts. (26.4 watts) The amount of current is determined by the demand, not the supply. So, you could have a 5000 watt inverter, but for that application, it will still only supply 26.4 watts.

It sounds like he has a connection problem, either like I did because of oxidation inside the outlet, or a bad connection under the dash. The first truck this company gave me, someone spilled soda on the dash and it rand into the outlet. Really gums up the works. Have to admit that the dried soda did help to hold down the rattles and squeaks. But, you had to have an indicator light to know if you had power or not.

I've also had to change the outlet in this truck because the phone charger was being very temperamental. I found that the center (+) contact would not make a good connection, but the new outlet works fine.

So, if he needs 240 watts of power to keep that computer going, he's got a mighty, big, fancy computer with ALL the bells and whistles. But, if he's just got an ordinary computer, that current, and the current that the inverter both draw out of the circuit should be below 50 watts and the circuit and fuse he has should be MORE than enough.

Well, I've had the exact problem before-- on my laptop-- when trying to use the cig outlet- with a small inverter. I understand(I think) exactly the situation he's describing-- the light in his system tray keeps switching between laptop battery and AC adapter-- In which case, if the situation is as mine was-- his Inverter isn't shutting off/on-- just surging-- because it's
having trouble with supply/demand--

the 120 watts is the Input power TO the inverter-- not out from the inverter.

my AC adapter requires AC-- created/simulated by the inverter jacking up the 12Volts DC to 120volts then creating a modified sine wave- to simulate 110volts AC.

my AC adapter draws 100-240Volts AC 2amps- and outputs 19volts 6.3amps DC. so that's roughy 119.7 watts DC my laptop Needs!

so you see, if you only had a 10amp fuse (MAX before the fuse blows)--and you have a good Voltage regulator on your trucks alt( which-- (if you're reading 13.7volts at your outlets--right there you got a problem)
you should only be getting 12volts at your outlets---

12vX10= 120volts-- this is why mine was always right at edge

[Windwalker]

--and you have a good Voltage regulator on your trucks alt( which-- (if you're reading 13.7volts at your outlets--right there you got a problem)
you should only be getting 12volts at your outlets---

Well, let's see.... 13.7 at the outlets and I have a problem...

Factory setting for electronic voltage regulators is 13.7 volts. If you put a digital voltmeter on your battery when they are disconnected, you will read about 12.6 volts. HMMMmmmm.......... Must have been overcharged at the factory. That alone puts your outlets over 12 volts since they ARE NOT REGULATED SEPARATELY FROM THE REGULATOR IN THE ALTERNATOR. What ever exact voltage your alternator puts out is the exact same voltage you will read at the outlet. 13.6 to 13.8 or even 13.9 volts. And, it's the same for cars, trucks, and heavy equipment, unless you're talking about a 24 volt system (generally only military). But, by all means, do not take my word for it... CHECK WITH YOUR MECHANIC. If you only have 12 volts, you have other problems besides outlet, wire, and fuse. Better get your alternator checked or replace the shorted battery.

Or, you might have to get the light bulb in your voltage tracer probe re-calibrated.

[headborg]

--and you have a good Voltage regulator on your trucks alt( which-- (if you're reading 13.7volts at your outlets--right there you got a problem)
you should only be getting 12volts at your outlets---

Well, let's see.... 13.7 at the outlets and I have a problem...

Factory setting for electronic voltage regulators is 13.7 volts. If you put a digital voltmeter on your battery when they are disconnected, you will read about 12.6 volts. HMMMmmmm.......... Must have been overcharged at the factory. That alone puts your outlets over 12 volts since they ARE NOT REGULATED SEPARATELY FROM THE REGULATOR IN THE ALTERNATOR. What ever exact voltage your alternator puts out is the exact same voltage you will read at the outlet. 13.6 to 13.8 or even 13.9 volts. And, it's the same for cars, trucks, and heavy equipment, unless you're talking about a 24 volt system (generally only military). But, by all means, do not take my word for it... CHECK WITH YOUR MECHANIC. If you only have 12 volts, you have other problems besides outlet, wire, and fuse. Better get your alternator checked or replace the shorted battery.

Or, you might have to get the light bulb in your voltage tracer probe re-calibrated.

actually, I use a digital multimeter and probes....

ok, where as I don't dispute the settings for a alternator-- or the output for charging your batteries... what you posted up there...please enlighten me..

you said your battery reads-- 12.6 setting disconnected(or without the alternator charging them!)...
but the reading at your cig lighter is 13.7?

I understand your dash mounted voltmeter reads probably around 13 volts when the engine is running.....

but the reading at your cig is 13.7( assuming when engine is running)--
then drops to 12.6 with engine off?

so my question really is-- is your cig lighter wired direct to your alternator?

and you're positive-- there's no other diode packs(resisters/regulator) anywhere in the wiring harness?

you're getting 13.7 at your lighter?,,, you got any marker/headlight/tail lights blowing out recently?

[Windwalker]

actually, I use a digital multimeter and probes....

Ok, that's certainly an improvement over most guys.

ok, where as I don't dispute the settings for a alternator-- or the output for charging your batteries... what you posted up there...please enlighten me..

you said your battery reads-- 12.6 setting disconnected(or without the alternator charging them!)...
but the reading at your cig lighter is 13.7?

I actually thought it would make sense that in order to get any reading from the cig lighter, the batteries would have to be "re-connected". And, of course, the engine would have to be running to get that reading.

I understand your dash mounted voltmeter reads probably around 13 volts when the engine is running.....

but the reading at your cig is 13.7( assuming when engine is running)--
then drops to 12.6 with engine off?

so my question really is-- is your cig lighter wired direct to your alternator?

and you're positive-- there's no other diode packs(resisters/regulator) anywhere in the wiring harness?

Mine does not lose power when I switch the key off, so it does not go through the key switch. But, if I want to check the battery voltage, I can do so by checking the voltage in the cig lighter. The voltage is the same as checking it at the output of the alternator, or across the batteries. That suggests that, NO, there is not additional diode/resistor/regulator from the alternator to the cig lighter. But I will admit that I have not seen a schematic diagram of the wiring. I can put two meters in, one across the cig lighter, and the other at the alternator output to ground (which I did do with the last truck to try to find my problem) and they both read the same.

you're getting 13.7 at your lighter?,,, you got any marker/headlight/tail lights blowing out recently?

I had a tail light missing on a trailer just last week. I didn't know they gave me a used light that didn't work. I put the meter on the plug for the tail light... 13.6... Imagine that. The same as the output from the alternator.

Since you seem to be knowledgeable about electricity, what is the standard tollerance for the vast majority of electronic and electrical circuits. That is, without getting into something like frequency control where the tollerance can get down to (+/-)3%, or even (+/-)2%. Then, too, are you talking about the old filament light bulbs, or the new LED lights?

[Windwalker]

I would have thought Headborg would have had something to say by now. Since he hasn't, and to satisfy the curiousity of others that have been reading this thread... If there are any...

Tollerances for electrical and electronic circuits are generally quite loose.
Things like light bulbs could be considered to have a tollerance of (+/-) 15%. That means that if your alternator output goes up to 15 volts, you might have to keep adding water to your batteries, but the light bulbs will simply be a get brighter.

Ordinary house current that we may refer to as 110, 115, or 120 has been known to vary from about 109 volts to 128 volts. It happens in your homes all the time, depending on the demand from the power station. Most times, you notice absolutely nothing. "Brown-outs" are a problem with appliances like the fridge because the lower the voltage goes, the more current the motor draws, and the more current, the more heat it produces. It's the heat that destroys the winding inside. So, for them, it could be considered -5% to + 20%. Up to a point, the higher the voltage goes, the less current the motor draws, and the cooler it runs.

Things like resisters a tech might use to replace one in your TV, stereo, or CB generally have +/-10%. Some applications require only +/-5%, but seldom ever does it get to +/-3%.

For those of you that have the electric coolers in your trucks, it's a little different matter. They won't cool well at 11 volts. And, if the voltage goes up much beyond 14.5, you destroy the "peltier unit" that transfers the heat from the inside. It is actually a solid-state module that is designed to operate at a specific voltage. You won't damage it by going lower, but it won't take much above rated "emf" (electro-motive force).

[Phantom433a]

This is how I feel when people start talking about electricity. All I know is this. If you don't shut the power off while working with wiring...110 tingles REALLY good but 220 will blow your but across the room. Glad I hadn't hung sheetrock on that wall yet.

When you arn't getting enough power to the inverter to run the CPU.....do your gauge needles bounce around? If so you then you could have a loose ground cable. Might have the shop check it out.

[Double L]

My electricity teacher got shocked with 600 volts in college and lived! :shock: To me electricity is so much stuff to remember that I forgot alot of it and it was pretty complicated trying to learn everything in half a year! Then again electricity isn't my strong suit and plus I just took it since I need another class so I didn't really want to take it! So ugh all I can say is don't call me to work on your electrically stuff, hire a professional PLEASE!

[WarHorse]

you're going to blow the LCD screen inverter out of your laptop- if you continue to have that kind of power surge-- alternating back and forth between battery & adapter-- due to high amp demand/ lack of current supplyed to your inverter---

Thank you and Windwalker for the insights. When I started to reply to this thread, my low battery alarm went off, and the computer shut down. This while I am connected to AC power in a house.

So, the problem appears to be with the power supply, not the inverter. Broken cable, I guess, as I twisted it and powered back up with no problem.

While my computer - a 2004 model Toshiba Satellite P-25, 19" screen - is a power hog, the old (2005) International powered it just fine. I don't see why the 2006 International wouldn't power it up.

So I'll order a new power supply and let you know how it goes here.

Thanks again, and wish me luck.

[Double L]

Good luck!

[WarHorse]

Good luck!

Thank you Double L! I'll take all I can get.

[DaveFromColorado]

I had a mysterious issue with an inverter a while back, turned out I needed to have the inverter grounded to the chassis as well, otherwise it'd randomly go into "protection" mode and stop putting out A/C power.

not sure if that'd already been mentioned, I'm too lazy to read the whole thread. (I know, I know bad poster, writing without reading)

--Dave.